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SW 8432R Mounting pictures?

Tbone

Tbone

Well Known Member
Does anyone have any posted pictures on how they mounted their SW8432R oil cooler on the baffle of their 7? I ordered the cooler not realizing that the fittings were on one end instead of on each side (those who have know what I mean....?). Also some pictures of oil line routing would be appreciated also.
 
Tbone said:
Does anyone have any posted pictures on how they mounted their SW8432R oil cooler on the baffle of their 7? I ordered the cooler not realizing that the fittings were on one end instead of on each side (those who have know what I mean....?). Also some pictures of oil line routing would be appreciated also.
Click to expand...

I just went through this issue with friend and it was decided to swap the 8432 for a 8406. We could not come up with a plan to get the 8432 on the baffle that made sense or would work. It is larger than the 8406 and simply does not fit on the baffle without a major modification of some sort. For sure some have done it and they may be able to give you advice.

I have the 8432 but it is remote on the firewall with 4" duct to it.

It is my experience the 8432 is overkill with cooling for the standard 180 HP engine. The 8406 will work just fine.
 
I let the oil cooler salesman talk me into an 8432R as well, and have just recently discovered the same problem that you have. Unfortunately I don't have room on the firewall to remote-mount the cooler, so it has to go either on the baffle or on the engine mount somehow. My plan is to first finish trimming the baffles so I can see how much room I really have... then I might end up swapping it for an 8406.

mcb
 
Not an RV-7, but here's the fairly wide 9-row SW10599R cooler on the rear baffle of the RV-8 in my avatar. It's a tight fit, but just barely enough clearance to not touch the lower motor mount tube when the engine shakes at startup.

The SW8432R is a little bit narrower than the 10599R. If you could mount the 8432R with the bottom tank (where both the fittings are) downward, you could probably make it work but would probably have to replace at least one or perhaps both of the Vans-supplied hoses with longer hose(s).

img4680f.jpg


The bolts down the outboard side of the cooler are removed in this photo, because I'm in the middle of conjuring up an electric servo contraption with a flapper door to regulate the airflow coming out of the back of the cooler for winter flying.
 
Oil Cooler 'duct'

Order some U channel aluminum from Spruce, build a frame the size of the cooler perimeter, and let the cooler ride on the baffle but 1" further toward the firewall. The U channel will serve as a duct and gain you some clearance away from the engine mount as well.
 
I tried using some 3/4" U-channel to do exactly that, but it made the lower tank fitting collide squarely with the motor mount tube. I would've rather had the cooler mounted upwards another 1/2" or thereabouts to aid clearance, but this was the 3rd different size cooler that had been mounted on that baffle and I used existing holes and openings cut from the previous coolers and there's no more "meat" left on the baffle. Ultimately, we're going to buy or make another complete new rear baffle section and re-do it all from scratch to make it right, but for now it's working adequately.
 
I have the 8432R mounted on the left rear baffle of my 7A. Its a tight fit around the motor mount but ive had no problems in 120 hrs. In fact she holds steady at 185 to 190 deg. Even in a climb with oat of 105deg. Ill look for some pictures. Dont give up. Its definitely worth it. BTW, I have a 180 hp superior io360 w/std. Comp pistons...
 
The engine in my photo is an ECI Titan IO-360 with high compression, and it's a heat-making monster. The stock Van's-supplied NDM 7-row cooler was woefully inadequate (220-230 deg in cruise :mad: ). The second cooler we tried was a 13-row Aero Classic (actually mounted it on the baffle) and while it cooled great was just physically too large and rubbed the inside of the cowl and also touched the motor mount tube during the "wet dog" shake at startup. The 10599R cools gives us 190 degrees in cruise and 215 in climbs in Texas summer heat. And while it's currently a worrysome tight fit near the motor mount tube, it does not touch even during the heaviest engine shake at startup or shutdown The SW coolers are vastly more efficient than the NDM and highly recommended. We wish we would've installed the SW cooler first, hindsight is 20/20 of course, and education can be expensive.
 
Neal@F14 said:
Not an RV-7, but here's the fairly wide 9-row SW10599R cooler on the rear baffle of the RV-8 in my avatar. It's a tight fit, but just barely enough clearance to not touch the lower motor mount tube when the engine shakes at startup.
Click to expand...

One problem with the 7 is that, since the whole fuselage is wider, the engine mount tubes run outward from the engine at a much wider angle too. That makes things more difficult for oil cooler mounting, unfortunately.

frazitl said:
I have the 8432R mounted on the left rear baffle of my 7A. Its a tight fit around the motor mount but ive had no problems in 120 hrs. In fact she holds steady at 185 to 190 deg. Even in a climb with oat of 105deg. Ill look for some pictures.
Click to expand...

Please do, I'd love to see how you did it!

thanks,
mcb
 
SW8432 on an RV-6

Terry, this isn't an RV-7, but it should be very similar. I built an RV-7 but used a Positech on that one. Anyway, here's some picutres taken during construction of my RV-6 in 2002:

OrigOilCool_1.jpg


OrigOilCool_2.jpg


OrigOilCool_3.jpg


Actually, the oil hose routing is made a little easier by this configuration, but you will have to have a longer hose for the outboard side, as you surmised.

It's a tight fit, but possible. I have about 275 hours on this configuration with no problems. Oil temp rarely gets above 180F, O-360 carburated. You can see where I had to beef up the structure in a couple of places. No cracks so far.
 
8432K on RV-7A

I have an older SW 8432 K model with drawn cups, but it's the same idea. Not sure if the tapped holes are in the same location as the newer R model. Here's some construction pix from my not-yet-flying installation. Engine is an IO-360 A1B6. Good Luck!









 
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Not flying yet, but I mounted mine on the right, clamped to the engine mount. I don't like the idea of all that weight hanging on the baffles and shaking with the engine.

v42xx0.jpg
 
Neal. I really like your mounting on the engine mount. Less shaking has to be good. :D Are you going to duct air from the top of the engine to the cooler? My guess is that you need some forced air flow to provide enough cooling.
 
oil cooler mount

This is a Niagra 13 row oil cooler that Van's sells, and this is a trike.

I don't like all that weight on the baffles shaking around, Also I am concerned about robbing too much air from #3 for cooling.

My plan is to run a 3" scat tube from the #3 back baffle to the cooler. Then out of the cooler I plan to run another 3" tube to the cowl air exit. I may put a damper in it as well.

The idea is not to reduce the pressure differential across the engine.

I hope to be flying in April or when ever this #$%^#@ weather in ND breaks.

We will see how it turns out.
 
Oil temps

We are flying as of July 2. The engine is a IO360-A1B6 200hp.

This is what the first configuration looked like


I had 3" scat tubing from #4 cyl to the Niagara 20006A 13 row cooler that Vans sells. Note the exit plenum and ducting. The thought was to direct the flow to the exit and perhaps create a bit of venturi effect.

Note this is a nose dragger with all of the tubes obstructing the cowl exit. I do have a bit of rounding at the corner of the firewall.

First flight. cyl head temps ~350 oil temp 235 and climbing before I started backing off.

The baffling (PITA!) seemed to be well sealed. The first thing I did was remove the exit plenum. Aboslutely no change to either the oil or cyl temps.

I next removed the vernatherm. It appeared to expand as advertised. I measured the standard lycoming body, and it appeared to be about .030 deeper than it was supposed to be. Dan H has a bunch of info on vernatherms elsewhere. I fabricated a .032 crush washer instead of the .063 crushwasher. It made a distinct improvement, but would still climb up around 235 with high power (trying to seat new rings) and keep going up until power was reduced. Oat was in the 25 - 30C range.

airspeed seemed to have little effect.

I replaced the 3" hose from the baffle to the cooler with 4" scat. Again an improvement, but still the temps inched up and up under high power.

I did note that #1 and #3 cht were maybe 30 degrees higher than 2 and 4.

I had installed the baffling with the plates in front of #1 and #2 at full height. I trimmed the #1 plate off about 3/4". Problem solved! oil temp now may get up to 220 on a long max power run, but it is very stable with no inclination to keep climbing. It looks like the path under the inlet ramps really gets squeezed down and not a very smooth flow with that plate at full height.
 
Mounting Bracket, 8432 oil cooler on baffling

I have an IO-375 with P-Mags. I plan on mounting my oil cooler to the back of the baffling like the first picture in this post. However, I'm concerned that the bracket covers up over an inch of the cooler. Has anyone done an offset at an angle? Or has anyone install a 8432 oil cooler on an IO-375? Thanks.
 
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