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Superior I0 firewall locations?

Tbone

Tbone

Well Known Member
Will be mounting my Superior XP-I0360 in a few weeks and was curious what penetration holes should I pre-drill before mounting? I have the battery and contactor locations done, the recess done and the heater valve installed. Are the locations for the mixture, throttle, and prop gov. in the plans adequate for the Superior w forward facing sump/airflow? What else should I drill other that the wiring and such? any advice?
 
I have the same set up

The plans were not good on some things (prop/mixture cable) the FAB will need work. If you send me your email I can send you pics of whatever you like.
 
Andrew, I would like to see the photos as well if you don't mind. I am planning the same engine. Click my logon ID for the email addie.

Alton
 
you will have to fab a different throttle cable bracket. i used van's mixture linkage and the stock lyc m1 penatration locations and it worked fine. i used the lyc m1 control cables as well.

Drew

xpio360 forward facing fuel control rv7
 
I guess my original question would be on the plans. Are the holes in the firewall oriented in the correct position for the Superior XPI0360 with the Silver Hawk forward facing sump?:confused:
 
I have problems with the IO 360 superior holes from vans!

Hay, I will tell you my minor story about the holes and mounting of my IO 360 Superior. I think the holes and mounting of the battery and the solanoid (sp) and master switch is ok if you don't have the mags that allow you to use both when starting. My mag made it impossible to get my battery in where I had the box mounted. I ended up moving it down about 1 1/2" and also moving both the master solanoid and starter relay down too. And then, I still have to remove my wires from the Mag to remove the battery. It's not that big of a deal now, but I had the motor all mounted and then to try to move the stuff and have the motor and mount in the way..... pain in the A$$. My advice, On my next RV!!!!, I see where they take the battery box and slit it at the corners in front and put a hinge and pin in it. That way, you can pull the pin and remove the battery from the front.
Also, I think I would move some of the holes that I had pre-drilled from the plans. I hate to say it, but If you installed the engine, at least with a couple of bolts, do your routing of "things" then remove it and do a nice job at putting in the holes. The problem with that is having to plan out everything you want to bring through the fire wall, takes time.
Another thing I would do, Learned this from a group in Dabuque, IA, Again on my next RV! Instead of having the heat come into the middle of the fire wall, Harold in his RV7 has his heat muff on the back set of pipes and has 2 smaller feeds into vents on both sides of the firewall. The smaller feeds look easier to run too.
Well, good luck on the Superior instulation. PS... Do you have the New Metal sump on the motor, or the older composit one. There is a replacement sump if you don't have it yet. It is free and they even pay you to put it in. Easier now, befor you hang all the piping and controls. I'm doing that now, and except for one problem with the mixture cable bracket by the throtel body, I'm done. But thanks to this site, they have given me 2 solutions to the problem.
 
Yea, I guess I will mount my engine to the mount, finalize the "correct" locations for the throttle, mixture, and prop, and then remove the mount from the firewall and final drill. Seem that is a PITA but to get it right I guess that is what to do. I do have duel mags and have not heard of the battery issues. It is too late to move without the f/w looking like swiss cheese. I do recall somewhere in this forum reference to a FWF drawing that is more detailed to my asking... something like OP-?
 
Battery Box

When I moved my battery box down, I think I was able to do it so that I used some of the same holes that I already had. The box I think covered up the ones from the selanoid and master relay as I remember..... I will have to look next time I'm out at the hanger! If you hang the engine that will give you a better chance to get the right length cabels too. I had to re-do mine 3 times. The numbers I used from Vans just didn't work right for me. Run a string or wire or something after you have the holes drilled. Good luck!
Bill
 
I cut & drilled the FW as per Van's plans.
Mounted the oil cooler to the left FW.
Throttle cable could have been an inch longer.
Mixture cable ok.
Built new throttle bracket.

Just installed the new metal oil sump.
Your Vetterman exhaust system may have changed due to the new oil ports. Old exhaust obstructs bottom quick drain. Needed to move quick drain to a side port.
Removed heat muff as it was too restrictive using the previous setup.
Need to get new orientation of heat muff to properly install.
FL flying has no need for cabin heat.
 
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