Strobe wiring connector

[Captain Avgas]

I would like to insert connectors at the wing roots for the strobe wiring running to each wing (to facilitate later wing removal).

This would mean running the strobe shielding through a pin in the connector.

Is it possible that this set-up could result in "noise" in my radio (or other problems) due to the active strobe wires being unshielded in the vicinity of the connector.

 

[Mel]

The small "break" in shielding should not cause a problem unless it's very close to wiring that it could interfere with.

 

[Brantel]

I would ditch that idea. It is super easy to just disconnect the wires at the strobes and pull the whole cable out for wing removal if you ever need to. Pulling the wings in the future means something major has happened so taking 5 minutes to pull out the cable would be insignificant.

Extra connections create more opportunities for failure...

 

[cfiidon]

Terminal Board

I placed terminal boards on the inside of the fuselage side skins and use them to connect strobes (carry the shields thru the TBs), lights, pitot heat, roll servo... basically everything except antenna leads, because I didn't want to introduce .2-.5 db of loss on those. Those can easily thread thru conduit.

Three-fold benefits: 1) Cheap, 2) In the unlikely event of wing removal, it wouldn't be difficult 3) I can build and wire everything at home for plug -n- play after the airport move.

Terminal boards also allow for a port for troubleshooting. The downside might be that there is a risk to exposure to foreign objects. However, strategic placement or covering reduces that risk. Connectors are also a good choice. I have those in the wingtips, as they are much more likely to require removal and re-installation frequently.

You could use screws or proseal to attach them.

Don

 

[flion]

Use CPC connectors for all your wing wiring at the root. I've seen more than one case of having to remove a wing; if you don't do it then Murphy's Law will decree that you should have. The CPCs are the neatest and easiest way to manage this task; they insure you have a positive connection and you can more easily make additions and changes.

 

[sf3543]

Leave some slack

I'd just leave a little slack inthe fuselage in the event that the wing ever had to come off. (which will likely not happen anyway) then you could cut the wire and put on a connector after reinstalling the wing. The connector likely won't fit through the hole you make for the wire anyway.

 

[aerhed]

Use CPC connectors for all your wing wiring at the root. I've seen more than one case of having to remove a wing; if you don't do it then Murphy's Law will decree that you should have. The CPCs are the neatest and easiest way to manage this task; they insure you have a positive connection and you can more easily make additions and changes.
__________________

That's how I like it too. One CPC for each wing carries everything (except antennae). Makes a nice termination when you're wiring out the fuselage and gives a quick troubleshooting point also. Big planes do it, you can too.

 

[RV7Guy]

Cannon plugs

Here's what I'm using at both the tip and the fuselage connection. I'm using all Aveo LED's, position, strobes, landing and taxi. The faston terminals are the airframe grounds for the lights. These are 9 pin Mil spec locking connectors.

The wing/fuselage connection provides little room. A connector will be mounted to the fuselage in a 90 degree mount like that in the photo. This will provide a simple, quick connector.

I should point out that that one wing has a heated pitot tube and each wing has an Advanced Flight System temp probe. The wiring is included in these connectors.

[/IMG]

 

[Wayne Gillispie]

I am leaving some extra and butt splicing at wing root. No conduit in my wings to allow wires to chafe. The only ant conn is mb and a loss is not important. I have molex or amp conn at pitot/strobe/nav and dsub for roll ap servo/roll trim...so plenty of places to troubleshoot.

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

I was going to install connectors at the wing route but decided not to. It took me about 1 minute to pull the wiring through the wings. (I have a piece of string on all conduits) and realized that should the wings need to come off sometime, I'll detach at the wing tip lights and pull. I left a generous service loop so that there's no problem reinstalling connectors for the light later.

 

[chaskuss]

You don't need to pull the connector through

I was going to install connectors at the wing route but decided not to. It took me about 1 minute to pull the wiring through the wings. (I have a piece of string on all conduits) and realized that should the wings need to come off sometime, I'll detach at the wing tip lights and pull. I left a generous service loop so that there's no problem reinstalling connectors for the light later.

Bob,
Why cut off the connectors at the wingtip? You can buy an inexpensive tool which allows you to release the contact pins from the connector housing [Molex and D-Sub]. That way, You will be able to simply pull the harness out of the wing, without damage. For those who did not plan ahead, [as Bob did] tie a string to the harness BEFORE you remove it. That string will aid you to pull the harness back into the wing, later on.
Charlie

 

[flion]

Yes, I got my harness with the molex already installed and used the pin removal tool to remove the connector before feeding it from the root to the tip, and then put the connector back together. (I, too, have a string down my conduit.) And Bob is not wrong that it won't be difficult to remove the wiring through the conduit should he ever need to remove his wing. I just think the CPC at the root is easier, is all.