Yes, I've had this also. The switches we commonly use are not rated for the DC loads we put on them (the classic Carling ones). I've had a couple go bad - they get warm or hot. I've gotten into the habit of putting my hand on them from time to time (they are at the bottom of the panel where this is easily done).
The fundamental issue is not the DC rating of the switch, but the Lamp load rating of the switch. Here is a good
reference that can be used in the design of any electrical system.
Typically, the switch derating is 20 to 25 percent of the steady state load. For a 10 amp landing light load, this means the switch Resistive load rating should be 40 to 50 amps.
Alternatively, inrush current limiters can be wired in series with the load to limit the turn-on current surges that damage the switches.
The worst offenders are old-style strobe power supplies and landing/taxi lights, but inductive loads (motors or pumps) can be trouble as well.
In my RV-9A, I had multiple Carling switches fail.. Master, Strobe, Landing and Taxi switches. The Landing and Taxi switches usesd inrush limiters but still were heating up due to the wigwag function.
I replaced the Carlings with Honeywell switches and everything was fine. Internal analysis showed that the Carling switches failed due to overheating and loose rivets. The Honeywell switches use solid rivets, while the Carling switches used hollow rivets for the terminals.
In my Rocket, I got rid of load-carrying switches entirely by using relays controlled by low current switches.