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Static Port Question

T

Taz

Member
Two questions really...

First, as for the std blind rivet installation...it wasn't until after I put everything in that I noticed the instructions were for a -6, and the actual location for a -7 is different by 5/16" horiz & 1/2" vertical. Obviously this is easy to fix...but has anyone else done this or have any idea if that will really amount to a noticable amount of error. Although I have a couple of other 'rivets to nowhere' - this one will clearly telegraph my idiocracy!

Second, since I presume I know the answer I'm going to get, should I go with a Safe-air static system rather then the Vans std pop-rivet? I actually bought the system and have it sitting in the garage, but opted against it after reading an article by Stein, who specifically said 'you aren't smarter than Van' - even saying many that use the fancier setups eventually switch to the pop-rivet to reduce errors in the system. Really?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Brian

RV-7, N9823W
Just ordered finish kit
 
Hi Brain,

There are many threads that talk about the static ports on our RV's - one fairly recent - and the results various folks get with various systems. A search for "Static" will give you a pretty good list from which to start.

I personally have had excellent results with the Van's pop rivets - the only thing I look for in a static system is accurate results, and it gives that to us. The pop rivet heads don't bother me at all!

Paul
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Both okay

First, location. No biggie on the location. Not that critical. On my 7, I moved the location up to the bulkhead behind the baggage bulkhead. Much easier to service if necessary. Also, did that on my second 7, under construction.

I'm with Paul on the function of the rivet. Works great, simple and quick!!
 
In my RV7A, I had installed a flushed to the skin type static port and was seeing about 60-70 feet of error in a low pass type test. Also my airspeed was consistently low as I thought I had the slowest RV7. After many test, it showed that having a rivet head type shape give the best result. The rivet head that I end up using (closes result) was about 0.035 and now I don't see any change in my altimeter when I do a low pass at around 5-10 feet and my airspeed is within 1 knot accuracy.

Hope this helps.
 
I have the safe air static ports. I had the original version, and just today, I installed the new version. They protrude out more and are rounded instead of squared off. I think with the original I was 5-7 knots indicated slow. I am not pretty much dead on. If and when you used these, I would proseal the port to the skin and then rivet.
 
Thanks

All - thanks for taking the time to help out. I need to get better at searches as there's a lot of other threads on Static systems. Anyway, I think I'll leave well enough alone for now, but hang onto my SafeAir stuff just in case.

Again - thanks,
Brian
 
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