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Stainless steel screws where to buy?

YME

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Will be starting build on RV-12iS and would like to use S/S torque(sic) torx head screws on fairings, trim and cowling where needed. I assume I would need flat and round head screws. Has anyone used them and where did you purchase. Thanks
 
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Purchased multiple sizes at Spruce. Beware, SS screws can bind in nut plates occasionally.
 
Caution. I noted considerably more galvanic reaction with ss fasteners than with zinc plated, thus more corrosion. I have removed all the ss fasteners from my RV.
 
Will be starting build on RV-12iS and would like to use S/S torque head screws on fairings, trim and cowling where needed. I assume I would need flat and round head screws. Has anyone used them and where did you purchase. Thanks
Just for clarification, I assume that you are building as EAB. This change would not be allowed on E-LSA until after certification.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. In response to Mel's input, I forgot about that dang EAB vs E-LSA thing. Building E-LSA, so using only items supplied with kit.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. In response to Mel's input, I forgot about that dang EAB vs E-LSA thing. Building E-LSA, so using only items supplied with kit.
Just a clarification... Van's approves substitution of screws for interior panels, so you should be ok with this for E-LSA registration. Over the years, I've replaced all of mine with Torx-head screws, exterior too with no issues. I prefer the Torx-head screws, as they don't cam out like the Phillips heads.

And definitely thread creep, but if you plan to do your own oil changes, I'd definitely recommend substituting the standard oil-tank drain plug with the Fumoto quick drain below recommended by Van's.


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Purchased multiple sizes at Spruce. Beware, SS screws can bind in nut plates occasionally.
Op is looking for torque (sic), Torx stainless steel 100* flat head screws - can't find them in the ACS catalog ...

HFS
 
Here are the #8 screws I got. They were the only #8 100 degree SS flush-head screws I could find. The black oxide is wearing away on some of them, but they still look good.


If you’re building E-LSA, there are none on the interior. They’re only used on the exterior on the vertical stabilizer and around the avionics cover, which are obviously exterior parts.

I found #6 flush SS screws for around the landing light lenses and stall warning access cover, but can’t find where I sourced those at the moment.

And I used conical washers under the screws to protect the paint.
 
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Here are the #8 screws I got. They were the only #8 100 degree SS flush-head screws I could find. The black oxide is wearing away on some of them, but they still look good.

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Gee… they look 82 degree in the photo on the website… here’s the image from their website and one from the internet showing 82 and 100 degree side by side.

Micro Fasteners has Torx aka 6 Lobe 100 degree #8-32 x 1/2 flat head SS screws as mentioned in post #2. I wish I could find length 5/8 for my RV-14A pants but at least the #8 phillips don’t seem to cam-out as badly as #6 and I’m gonna try valve grinding compound next time to increase friction of the phillips driver. The #6-32 flat head screws on the RV-14A pants are 1/2” length which I got from Micro Fasteners.

I can get 1.000 each Torx aka 6 Lobe 100 degree #8-32 x 5/8 flat head SS screws from pencomsf.com for $90.00 8-10 weeks lead time and there might be shipping on top of that I didn’t ask. The price is not necessarily a deal breaker but if the valve grinding compound works I’m good.

I wonder if it would work to convert 82 degree screws to 100 degree on a lathe. The 18-8 SS is gummy though.

I haven’t had a galling issue with the 1808 SS screws in nutplates using Boelube.
 

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Here are the #8 screws I got. They were the only #8 100 degree SS flush-head screws I could find. The black oxide is wearing away on some of them, but they still look good.


If you’re building E-LSA, there are none on the interior. They’re only used on the exterior on the vertical stabilizer and around the avionics cover, which are obviously exterior parts.

I found #6 flush SS screws for around the landing light lenses and stall warning access cover, but can’t find where I sourced those at the moment.

And I used conical washers under the screws to protect the paint.
Where do you find the spec these are 100 deg countersunk ?
 
I can get 1.000 each Torx aka 6 Lobe 100 degree #8-32 x 5/8 flat head SS screws from pencomsf.com for $90.00 8-10 weeks lead time and there might be shipping on top of that I didn’t ask. The price is not necessarily a deal breaker but if the valve grinding compound works I’m good.


Last time I checked with pencomsf their min order qty was 10,000 screws :mad::eek:
Screenshot 2024-11-03 223308.jpg
 
Micro Fasteners has Torx aka 6 Lobe 100 degree #8-32 x 1/2 flat head SS screws as mentioned in post #2. I wish I could find length 5/8 for my RV-14A pants but at least the #8 phillips don’t seem to cam-out as badly as #6 and I’m gonna try valve grinding compound next time to increase friction of the phillips driver. The #6-32 flat head screws on the RV-14A pants are 1/2” length which I got from Micro Fasteners.
Why do you want 5/8 for your wheel pants ? Plans call for AN507C832R8 (1/2 in) and they have worked well for many years but 6 lobe 1/2 inch for my 14A.Screenshot 2024-11-04 192436.jpg
 
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Why do you want 5/8 for your wheel pants ? Plans call for AN507C832R8 (1/2 in) and they have worked well for many years but 6 lobe 1/2 inch for my 14A.
More flox I guess, excellent build IMO by Mark Santoleri MS19087 on VAF.
 
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Just a clarification... Van's approves substitution of screws for interior panels, so you should be ok with this for E-LSA registration. Over the years, I've replaced all of mine with Torx-head screws, exterior too with no issues. I prefer the Torx-head screws, as they don't cam out like the Phillips heads.

And definitely thread creep, but if you plan to do your own oil changes, I'd definitely recommend substituting the standard oil-tank drain plug with the Fumoto quick drain below recommended by Van's.


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Got it, thanks
 
Van’s approved alternate for the SS Philips #8 screws is a pan head Torx, approved for all interior panels. Not for exterior for some reason. A better choice might be Truss head T20 Torx. The Philips screws furnished in the kit are Truss head. Note that the Truss head covers the nylon washers completely while the Pan head does not and looks wrong if used with washers. I have no opinion whether any of this affects a valid E-LSA build or not.

One precaution when using Torx screws is use care with power drivers. These can be over driven and even broken off since they don’ t cam out easily like a Philips.
I source the Truss head Torx from Tacoma Screw Products. Boxes of 500, they don’t do small orders. 500 is enough for 2 rv12’s with some spares.

IMG_3349.jpegIMG_3349.jpeg
 
Van’s approved alternate for the SS Philips #8 screws is a pan head Torx, approved for all interior panels. Not for exterior for some reason. A better choice might be Truss head T20 Torx. The Philips screws furnished in the kit are Truss head. Note that the Truss head covers the nylon washers completely while the Pan head does not and looks wrong if used with washers. I have no opinion whether any of this affects a valid E-LSA build or not.

One precaution when using Torx screws is use care with power drivers. These can be over driven and even broken off since they don’ t cam out easily like a Philips.
I source the Truss head Torx from Tacoma Screw Products. Boxes of 500, they don’t do small orders. 500 is enough for 2 rv12’s with some spares.

View attachment 73622View attachment 73622
Thanks Tony and I agree with the cosmetics looks of the Truss heads.
 
One precaution when using Torx screws is use care with power drivers. These can be over driven and even broken off since they don’ t cam out easily like a Philips.
I source the Truss head Torx from Tacoma Screw Products. Boxes of 500, they don’t do small orders. 500 is enough for 2 rv12’s with some spares.

View attachment 73622View attachment 73622
Go easy with power drivers, heat generation is a primary factor for galling these screws. I never use a power driver when installing these. Takes an extra 30 secs. Also add Boelube.
 
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