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Squeezing Rivets

J

jwilbur

Well Known Member
I'm just getting started with my RV-10 emp and realize that I'm not 100% sure about squeezing rivets. Dimpling is obvious enough, but not riveting. I've got different sets all with flat tops that came with my cleaveland tools tool kit (I've got the hand squeezer). Some of the sets are long and some are short, but they all have flat tops. What are they for? One is clearly a cup set. In van's practice kit, I did successfully squeeze rivets and eventually I got them to look right, but I'm just not sure what I'm doing and would appreciate some guidance before I really get going on my emp kit. I've searched on VAF and EAA and I've asked Google, but I can find nothing to explain the basics of how to hand squeeze rivets.

Thank you,
-Joe Wilbur
 
The length of the rivet dictates where to adjust the set holder to get the correct squeezed length when you are done.

The different thickness heads are part of the system of setting the squeezer, as you want to use the total travel of the tool.

Some rivet squeezers have adjustable set holders, and some do not.

For squeezers without an adjustable set holder, you can use a washer or two under the set as needed.
 
jwilbur said:
I'm just getting started with my RV-10 emp and realize that I'm not 100% sure about squeezing rivets. Dimpling is obvious enough, but not riveting. I've got different sets all with flat tops that came with my cleaveland tools tool kit (I've got the hand squeezer). Some of the sets are long and some are short, but they all have flat tops. What are they for? One is clearly a cup set. In van's practice kit, I did successfully squeeze rivets and eventually I got them to look right, but I'm just not sure what I'm doing and would appreciate some guidance before I really get going on my emp kit. I've searched on VAF and EAA and I've asked Google, but I can find nothing to explain the basics of how to hand squeeze rivets.

Thank you,
-Joe Wilbur
Click to expand...

Explaining rivets, sets, and techniques is very difficult in text.
Recommend you snag a buddy with a little experience and have a session. You will learn 100 times more in 5 minutes than any of us could explain in 100 messages.
Do you have an EAA chapter nearby? someone who has built a metal airplane?
You could also consult the RV white pages and check the state/city list. I did not see your city name in there but Im sure there is someone not too far away.
 
Last edited:
One of the "flat" rivet sets is always used on the shop head.

If you are setting round head rivets, then you use the proper sized "cupped" set on the manufactured head.

If you are setting flush rivet, then you use another "flat" rivet set on the manufactured head.

The different lengths of the flat sets allows you to get the rivet set properly on the rivets when other structures, rivets, platenuts, etc are in close proximity to the rivet you are trying to set, but otherwise you can't.

The different set lengths are also used when using "long" rivets vs "short" rivets. They just provide a different solution to setting rivets.
 
What he said

Kahuna said:
Explaining rivets, sets, and techniques is very difficult in text.
Recommend you snag a buddy with a little experience and have a session. You will learn 100 times more in 5 minutes than any of us could explain in 100 messages.
Do you have an EAA chapter nearby? someone who has built a metal airplane?
You could also consult the RV white pages and check the state/city list. I did not see your city name in there but Im sure there is someone not too far away.
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more. Get involved in your local chapter and get a volunteer technical counselor to pay you a visit.

EAA also has a series of "Hints for Homebuilders" video clips on their website. This one deals with the basics of Rivets 101:

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=21190816001

Look through all their videos and see if you find what you're looking for.
 
Joe,
What Kahuna said. You got some time this weekend? Come on over and I'll get you up to speed in no time with some hands-on practice.
 
I want to make sure that you got the instructions with the tool? If not I want to hear about it so we can make sure that we get that corrected, for immediate results you can download them here: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/instructions/SCH22_Instructions.pdf

noelf is right in his description, I would take Todd up on his offer you will learn more in a few minutes than a day of trial and error.

The large diameter flat set is intended for the flush side of flush rivets, the cup obviously is for 470-4 rivets (for the RV10 you will eventually need the cup set for 470-3 rivets as well), and the smaller diameter flat sets are for the 'inside' or shop head of the rivet. The shorter the rivet, the longer flat set that you use in order to keep maximum thread engagement in the ram.
 
Hi Joe...and welcome to VAF

Get some scrap aluminum and follow these specs, as per FAA 43.13....a manual that details acceptable aircraft practices.

Rivets should have a shop head (the one you make after squeezing) that is 50% larger than the original diameter, so an 1/8th inch rivet should have a completed shop head 3/16" in diameter.

A 3/32" rivet ends up with a shop head of 9/64"...do the math. Take a piece of scrap aluminum and drill a 3/16" hole on one end and a 9/64" hole on the other end...a neat little handy gauge that you simply lay over the shop head you just made, to see if the rivet needs to be squeezed a little more or if you oversqueezed it. Rivets are really cheap, so practise until you get the hang of it.

Best,
 
Thank you everyone for the advice and help. I do have the instructions that came with the squeezer and just today picked up a micrometer ... but still, knowing when/where to use what set and why the different length flat sets exist is a different story. Todd, I have your number and will give you a call. Maybe tomorrow evening if you have time I can stop by. Again, everybody, I appreciate the time you've all taken to write.

-joe
 
jwilbur said:
Thank you everyone for the advice and help. ----------
Again, everybody, I appreciate the time you've all taken to write.

-joe
Click to expand...

That is what we are here for.

Good luck, I also add my dittos for getting hands on training.
 
jwilbur said:
I'm just getting started with my RV-10 emp and realize that I'm not 100% sure about squeezing rivets.
Click to expand...

While you're at it -- go to one of the online suppliers (such as aircraftspruce.com) and get a few (not-very-expensive) things:

a) a few handfuls of long rivets (longer than you will ever need) in 1/8" and 3/32" diameter, and universal and flush heads.

b) a rivet cutting tool.

c) rivet gauges for checking the diameter and length of your formed rivet heads (or make these yourself).

d) a rivet length gauge.

You'll find that a number of rivets as called out in the Van's plans are just too short for the job at hand (for example, the rivets used to affix the rudder stops to the rudder hinge points, and some of the rivets in the spar of the vertical stabilizer). I always check to make sure that the rivets I'm using are long enough (and not too long) using my rivet length gauge. If I don't have long enough rivets handy (and the RV-10 tailkit does not come with many rivets in longer lengths), I just take one of the long rivets I bought and trim it down to the right size.

Chris
 
Some Unsolicited Advice

"Dimpling is obvious enough, but not riveting."
One of the lessons I have learned recently (just doing empennage myself) is that the dimple quality is important if you want good skin quality. Have fun learning!
 
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