I?d like to get some ideas on how people did the more forward set of markings for the holes on the spinner. I drew out the initial set on the rear plate and did OK but the forward and smaller plate seems to be a bit more challenging. The plans don?t give me enough detail?at least what I can understand. Pictures or drawings would help my caveman brain.
Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Spinner Template
- Thread starter Bart
- Start date
N941WR
Legacy Member
Bart,
The spinner is pretty much see through. Mark the forward bulkhead and and you should be able to see the marks w/o any problem.
Using tape is a great way to get even spacing.
To make sure the thing is centered, I used a dial indicator, which I bolted to a ladder, and held down with bags of led shot.
The spinner is pretty much see through. Mark the forward bulkhead and and you should be able to see the marks w/o any problem.
Using tape is a great way to get even spacing.
To make sure the thing is centered, I used a dial indicator, which I bolted to a ladder, and held down with bags of led shot.
pierre smith
Well Known Member
Hi Bart.......
....to expound a little on what Bill said, if you'll get a flexible cloth type measuring tape, measure the circumferance of the spinner while it's standing straight up as in Bill's picture. Carefully divide the result by 2 and mark opposite sides for starters. As you enlarge the openings, keep measuring the prop root for dimensions. BTW, we did this with the prop mounted on the airplane...cut and fit, cut and fit...
If you don't have a dial indicator, it's no biggie...just clamp a pointed object like a pencil to a step ladder or whatever and with a mark on the very tip of the spinner, rotate the engine and watch for any oscillation..(BTW, removing either upper or lower plugs is necessary because the compression strokes mess it all up and move the airplane), something you don't want.
We used cleco clamps to hold the spinner to the back plate while we rotated it and bumped it to center it.
Regards,
....to expound a little on what Bill said, if you'll get a flexible cloth type measuring tape, measure the circumferance of the spinner while it's standing straight up as in Bill's picture. Carefully divide the result by 2 and mark opposite sides for starters. As you enlarge the openings, keep measuring the prop root for dimensions. BTW, we did this with the prop mounted on the airplane...cut and fit, cut and fit...
If you don't have a dial indicator, it's no biggie...just clamp a pointed object like a pencil to a step ladder or whatever and with a mark on the very tip of the spinner, rotate the engine and watch for any oscillation..(BTW, removing either upper or lower plugs is necessary because the compression strokes mess it all up and move the airplane), something you don't want.
We used cleco clamps to hold the spinner to the back plate while we rotated it and bumped it to center it.
Regards,
7DeltaLima
Well Known Member
template
Peter James posted a template from Hartzell on the matronics RV-10 board a while back. I used it a couple weekends ago. Worked out well. I didn't 100% trust the markings so I sanded to them gradually but ended up pretty much where I'd originally marked.
Not certain how to post the pdf file but sure someone else can grab it. Search for spinner on the rv10 matronics list and it'll show up.
Doug
Peter James posted a template from Hartzell on the matronics RV-10 board a while back. I used it a couple weekends ago. Worked out well. I didn't 100% trust the markings so I sanded to them gradually but ended up pretty much where I'd originally marked.
Not certain how to post the pdf file but sure someone else can grab it. Search for spinner on the rv10 matronics list and it'll show up.
Doug
w1curtis
Well Known Member
When I first saw this thread, I though this was the same Hartzell 8068 propeller cutout template they were referring. But I think Bart is referring to a template for the small spinner bulkhead not the propeller cutout itself.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/9XOther/8068D_Vans_Hartzell_Cutout_Template.pdf
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/9XOther/8068D_Vans_Hartzell_Cutout_Template.pdf
airbal
Don't drill the front spinner bulkhead. It's only function is to keep the spinner centered and not wobbling. Just center the spinner tightly on it and drill the rear bulkhead. If it is not tight. put washers behind the front bulkhead to space it forward. i used this method on my 8 and 7A.
warren
Don't drill the front spinner bulkhead. It's only function is to keep the spinner centered and not wobbling. Just center the spinner tightly on it and drill the rear bulkhead. If it is not tight. put washers behind the front bulkhead to space it forward. i used this method on my 8 and 7A.
warren
Last edited:
Space Cadet
Well Known Member
Speed with Economy
Just finished Kent Pacer's book, I recall he specifically called out examples of people not mounting the front one properly as being a problem.
My 2 cents.
Dwight
Just finished Kent Pacer's book, I recall he specifically called out examples of people not mounting the front one properly as being a problem.
My 2 cents.
Dwight
Hello all
I'm working on the spinner today. I have a Hartzell two blade constant speed prop, just purchased from Van's. Do I need to adjust the pitch in order to get the spinner down over the prop. hubs. I used the template linked in this post and it will not slide down over the hubs. I have the blades mounted on the engine, and it's fastened to the engine mount. I tried turning the picth but could not overcome the springs I assume.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ron
I'm working on the spinner today. I have a Hartzell two blade constant speed prop, just purchased from Van's. Do I need to adjust the pitch in order to get the spinner down over the prop. hubs. I used the template linked in this post and it will not slide down over the hubs. I have the blades mounted on the engine, and it's fastened to the engine mount. I tried turning the picth but could not overcome the springs I assume.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ron
