Newbie here, wanted to say hello. I’ve been dreaming of building an airplane for some time, and just made a deal on a -6 kit. I’ll go pick it up in a few weeks. Fuselage, wings done, has both -6 and -7 tail pieces. Nothing else yet. I’ll probably configure as a 6a as I’m taking lessons. Mission will be primarily for cross country travel. My question is how to build lightness and proper CG to carry me at 200 lbs, wife at 130, and max baggage.
I found excellent post here....
Looking for engine / prop combo - thinking the titan IO-340 and WW300 prop to start. SDS fuel/ignition and IFR lite panel. Read the -7 finishing kit is 1” longer on the nose - does that help or hinder cg? Mimi also interior but want comfortable. Slider with supertraks extension planned.
Welcome thoughts and suggestions.
Never bucked a rivet before but have built many cars, engines, etc.
Cant wait to start!
Ed
I found excellent post here....
Vans has already done a good job at making his airplanes light. The early RV-6 with a 160 hp and wood prop was a formidable machine and had a lot of performance. That's why he spanked all of the competition when it came out.
Here are some weight savings for the RV-6
1. Lightweight Tail wheels-saves about 1.5lbs
2. Use RV-7 elevators- the counter balance weights are on the ends compared to the -6 using two weight bolted to the inside and closer to the rotational axis.
3. Lighter interior materials-cloth versus leather and don't put carpet everywhere. More noise but with cancelling headsets who cares.
4. Lighter instruments. Most of your digital instruments are less bulky.
5. No vacuum system.
6. Be very anal about hardware bolt lengths and washers. Vans plans never seems to have to correct bolt lengths in there. I got about every bolt imaginable and used thinner washer and correct screws in all the applications. Over the entire airplane, you can save a lot of pounds. It adds up.
7. Don't primer ALCAD parts. If weight is the enemy, why are we painting parts that are already corrosion proof. Look at all the planes that don't have primer and are still flying around....?
8. Be very anal about your engine install and accessories like brake lines. I used all AN3 parts. No AN4 fittings or hoses. You don't need it. They are harder to find and sometimes more expensive but if weight reduction is the mission, then you need to use that.
9. Wood prop or MT/Composite Prop. No metal props
10 Lightweight accessories like Sky-Tec starter, B&C small Alt...ect.
11. Carb versus FI. More parts means more weight.
12. Lightweight flywheel. They make them. They are not cheap.
13. Be very careful on MIL stack up of your paint. Paint can get very heavy if you blast a bunch on there.
14. Use Light weight fillers or bondo. It adds up if you use the heavy stuff.
15. Lightening hole everything allow on the build. All spars that Van approved to lighten, cut the holes in them. It adds up.
Everything I just listed will probably in total cut over 100lbs off your bird. You should be able to get a 180hp RV-6 in the air under 1000lbs. It has been done before.
Looking for engine / prop combo - thinking the titan IO-340 and WW300 prop to start. SDS fuel/ignition and IFR lite panel. Read the -7 finishing kit is 1” longer on the nose - does that help or hinder cg? Mimi also interior but want comfortable. Slider with supertraks extension planned.
Welcome thoughts and suggestions.
Never bucked a rivet before but have built many cars, engines, etc.
Cant wait to start!
Ed