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Snorkel problems

Paul K

Well Known Member
I built an ECI IO360 with cold air ECI induction and now as I expected, the factory snorkel doesn't fit. Not even close!

For starters, the distance from the FI to the floor of the left intake ramp is the wrong distance, doesn't even come close to lining up, and there are several objects in the way such as a SkyTec starter unused mount and the alternator mount. I thought I would just be able to cut and re-fab small sections to make it fit but the more I look at it the more hopeless is appears to be. The flange isn't even on the same plane at the FI flange plate and the filter end doesn't come close to where it needs to be. So, I have choices and need advice from those who have gone before me.

Choice one:
a. cut the snorkel in two at the center point to lengthen it and correct the top filter alignment.
b. Cut and add glass to create a notch at the alternator mount, an indentation.
c. Cut and create another notch for the starter mount or remove the unused mount and possible void the warranty of the starter.
d. Cut off the flange and re-glass it parallel and in alignment to the FI flange.

Choice two:
a. Send the snorkel back to Van's or sell it on the web.
b. build a foam plug of the exact size and shape needed to fit my configuration.
c. Glass over the plug and build a matching flange for the FI mount.
d. dissolve the plug with solvent, clean up glass inside and out, paint outside,
d. Install new snorkel that will fit.

I like choice two except that I have no idea as to why the factory snorkel has bumps and bulbs where it does. In other words, what are the air flow dynamics of the inside of a snorkel? Can it be more or less a constant volume tube or an constantly reducing tube shape top to bottom?

I have searched the forums and can see where major modifications have been made and one that looks like a scratch built snorkel but direct comments on my choices would be greatly appreciated.
 
I did your "Choice One", a, b, c.1, c.2 but not d. This on a TMX-IO-360-M1B with Silverhawk FI.

Although it's a shame to hack the Van's part I think it is actually simpler and less work than rolling your own from scratch.
 
Thanks Bill,

I'm actually thinking of making a foam form or plug, sliding a fiberglass or carbon fiber sleve over the top and epoxying it, possibly two or three thick. Then using solvent to remove the foam plug. I've never done anything like this before but am going to try a sample project over the next day or two to see how it works before I decide what direction to go on this.

Any experiance out there to share?
 
not quite the same but. . .

Paul,
I have a similar setup but not exactly the same. I have the ECI IO-340 with ECI forward facing cold air induction with the ECI fuel injection. I have the snorkel mounted on mine and it all fit like a glove. There was one big thing I had to do to make that happen though.

So my question is: Have you checked with Vans to make sure you have the correct cowl for your setup? For my setup to work I had to make sure I purchased the larger IO-360 cowl from Vans instead of the normal 320 or 360 cowl they offer. I am not saying this may be the problem you are facing, I am just suggesting that this could be an issue as to why things are not lining up.

You mentioned there is interference with the SkyTec starter with your snorkel. I also have the SkyTec 149-12LS starter. My snorkel fit perfectly around this starter so it is interesting that you are saying the starter is interfering. I would be interested to see any pictures you may have of your setup.

My thoughts on what you might look into.
 
Steve,

Thanks, I did check with Vans and they warned me that I would have to make changes and that the cowl is the closest fit.

My SkyTec starter has two mounting options, a side flange that bolts directly to the bottom of the case (the one I am using) and a second set of mounts that project from the sides that I am not using. One of these is used to help support the alternator but the others are un-used. One of those is in the way. It projects out about and inch from the side of the starter.
 
unused starter mounting ears

rather than modifying the snorkel to accommodate unused mounting ears on the starter i just cut them off and filed them smooth...

img5425e.jpg
 
also had to cut off one ear on the starter plus had to make an identation to give way to the alternator. a few layers of glass resealed the hole.
other than that, the van's snorkel fit quite well.

(mattituck tmx-io360 with eci cold air horizontal induction and eci fuel injection.)
 
Thanks Bill,

I'm actually thinking of making a foam form or plug, sliding a fiberglass or carbon fiber sleve over the top and epoxying it, possibly two or three thick. Then using solvent to remove the foam plug. I've never done anything like this before but am going to try a sample project over the next day or two to see how it works before I decide what direction to go on this.

Any experiance out there to share?

Look for threads by DanH in the fiberglass forum section for good info. Here's a great example of what your looking to do.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=44856
 
gave it my best shot!

Tonight I decided to try to make the stock snorkel fit by cutting and fitting. After 2.5 hrs I have given up and decided to build a custom snorkel from scratch. I am going to get a good jump on it this weekend and will take photos of the entire process. I am going to use Dan's example of how to do a really nice job with foam. I can only hope to come close to his quality but will give it my all. Wish me luck!
 
takes time no matter how you do it...

fitting the snorkel to a forward facing servo just takes time no matter how you do it... the vans shape is a good starting point for most, some report that they were able to just bolt one up with minor effort but i have seen several sketchy looking installations. to get a good fit i had to cut the snorkel in half and fit each half separately then rejoin the body. my rejoin point was shifted and rotated a bit so i cut fingers into the glass at the offset locations and worked some heat to blend the shapes. if you use the airflow performance flow meter there is quite a bit of additional work to change the end from a smaller flange to a larger slip fitting... for all of the work associated with the snorkel start to finish i logged around 40 hours. if i did another one i bet i could cut that time in half, but still quite a bit of effort.
 
nothing strange...

It seems that almost everybody has this fitting problem, although the snorkel that is sold today has a slightly better fit then the piece of interesting scrap we worked with. Step by step story on http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7853 and beyond. Best way is to cut it and paste it together again. It is very important to include the position of the left front baffle into the fitting, which has a relation with the air intake of the cowling. Good luck!
 
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