Snorkel Interference with Mixture Arm

[UnPossible]

Well - I thought I was finished modifying the snorkel to fit, when I just noticed that the mixture adjustment arm on the fuel injection servo hits the snorkel preventing full travel.

[Rant Mode On] Is is really too much to ask for this stupid $250 snorkel to fit a standard 360 engine with a standard fuel injection servo? I already had to flatten the top near where it attaches to the servo to clear the standard PlanePower alternator. It really wouldn't take any longer at the factory to make parts like these that fit.... I would understand if I was using non-standard parts, but why not just make it right the first time?????? Why keep making crappy parts that don't fit when a change to the mold would make parts that just fit? [Rant Off]

Anyone have a good suggestion as to how to modify the snorkel to get full mixture travel? I am assuming that I will need to cut a hole and fiberglass in an indention. Is there a simpler alternative that I am missing?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[timandmeli]

Snorkle interference

I just finished with fitting my snorkel and when I saw your post ran to the shop to see if mine was hitting like yours. Nope...phew. You can index the arm by unscrewing the nut, then reposition the tooth alignment so that the most forward movement doesn't hit your snorkel. As always YMMV.

Tim

 

[Jerry Cochran]

Chop the arm?

Or, what would be wrong with shortening the arm to clear the snorkel, and redrill the hole? This would only make the red knob a bit less sensitive.

 

[JonJay]

Shorter Arm

They make a shorter arm but I think they want about $100 for it. I cut mine down and tig welded it back together. As mentioned you can clock it differently just make sure its alignment to the mixture cable is relatively linear and you don't want to be anywhere close to going over center.

 

[Rob Hanberg]

Or

I had the same problem with mine and I took a heat gun and heated the area where it interferes with arm.After heated it became plyable enough push it in and no more interference.
Rob

 

[Noah]

I would re-index the arm, take about 30 seconds. The thin nut holding the mixture arm in place was the only nylok nut FF until I replaced it with an all metal locknut a few weeks ago. Yes, the nylok is certified and is standard for a Bendix RSA. But why have everything else be all metal FF?

 

[UnPossible]

I would re-index the arm, take about 30 seconds.

I think the 30 second estimate was a bit optimistic... it took me at least 90 seconds by the time I found my torque wrench and 1/2" socket......

Thanks for the quick responses... I only wish every roadblock I run into will be solved so quickly and painlessly.

Thanks again,
Jason

 

[Toobuilder]

Just make sure you have enough geometric travel at the other end now that you have re indexed the arm. I have the same problem on the -8, but that is because I wanted to eliminate the Vans supplied claptrap of bell cranks and rod ends in favor of running the cable direct from under the sump. You are generally looking for the cable to be 90 degrees to the arm at mid stroke, so that drove me to a more forward position of the arm, which is exacerbated by the fact that I lengthened the arm to take advantage of the full travel the vernier cable offers. (looking for more resolution when leaning). As a result, I have to cut and dimple the snorkel. Not a big deal if required. ...That is until I throw that thing in the trash and get a proper forward facing inlet and filter fabricated (but that's a different rant).