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#$%! Sliding Canopy Frame, help!

rwtrwtau

Active Member
Ok, I have about 15 hours invested into getting this canopy frame to fit and it is a real pain in the neck. I do seem to be making progress but I wonder if I am being too picky and how close is close enough before I cut the plexi?

The first issue I have is the instructions. Van says a few contradictory things in the instructions.... He talks about the plexi pulling the skirts out up to 1/2" after drilling and this "being compensated for later" But page 10 (before drilling the plexi to the frame) "Do not try to reshape the frame after drilling to the plexi. It will break at one of the attach holes" Then on the bottom of page 11 he is talking about adjusting the frame after drilling. i.e. remove the plexi and adjust. What the heck, he just said not to do this didn't he?

Another problem I have is that the side bows can be adjusted to give the 1/16 clearance he wants in most places but in other places there is more than 1/16 I figure that is better than less than 1/16 and can be accommodated during fitting of the side fairings. It seems to be a compromise between issues of having the track rollers in the right place and accepting some leeway in the side bows. Does this seem reasonable?

Also it seems apparent that the rear bows cannot be made to fit the rear of the fuselage skins down low near the side bows as the shape of the weld totally precludes any sort of fit in this area. So it would seem a spacer may be required or the rear skirts/fibreglass lay up will need to account for this.

I seem to have only minimal clearance between the sides of the fuselage aft skin and the aft corners of the canopy weldment as it is rolled back. This seems to imply that the side bows are tucked in too far or too low. I have seen one builder that has removed material from the sides of the fuselage skins in this area is this normal?

For those of you that have done this before, could you please tell me how close is enough? I figure that it is important to have at least 1/16 between the side bows and the longerons. More can be accommodated easily in the fitting of the sides.
 
Canopy frustration- me too!

"I seem to have only minimal clearance between the sides of the fuselage aft skin and the aft corners of the canopy weldment as it is rolled back. This seems to imply that the side bows are tucked in too far or too low. I have seen one builder that has removed material from the sides of the fuselage skins in this area is this normal?"

I have the side rails exactly at 1/16" of an inch as per the plans and the canopy frame will not clear the upper skins on both sides. The rear bow is welded to the inside of the side frame. The rear bow is what hits the skins???

All my measurements are correct. Help too!

Jeff Vaughan :confused:
 
The most miserable 6 weeks and 70+ hrs I have ever spent was rebuilding my canopy after it was severely damage. And that was with 2 of us working on it. Retrofitting to an existing structure seemed to make it more difficult. Bend, twist, cut, weld, heat, reposition, redo 10,000 times. Sorry I have no suggestions just empathy for your pain and suffering.
 
After finishing my slider frame I swore that my next RV would be tip up. However, now the memory of the pain has faded and I now think I'm going to go slider again. Some lame tips follow...

To get the side rails to fit the curve of the fuse: Take 3/4" thick plywood table and drill three holes in it, where the middle hole is slightly offset from the line formed by the other two holes. Bolt a block of slightly rounded wood into each of the three holes. These three blocks of wood combined with a large C-clamp makes a perfect 'side rail bending brake'. This makes putting the correct curve of the side rails trivial (really!). My builders log (http://www.geeksville.com/plane) has photos somewhere.

To get the aft bows to clear the fuse while opening: This was the hardest part for me - _huge_ pain because its a fine line between the right shape and still being able to open the canopy without the bars catching on the aft skin. In fact, while fighting with these bows (ineffectually trying a similar bending brake to what I described above) I eventually cracked one. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Once the bow was disconnected from the side rail it was easy to bend it to shape since I wasn't fighting a big 3D spring. Then I just clamped the broken piece together and took the frame over to a friend's to be rewelded. On my next plane if the aft bows turn into hell, I'm just going to cut them, bend them to shape, and then pay $50 to get them rewelded. Of course your milage may vary.

Kevin
 
Brockster said:
The picture is under Monday May 3, 2004.

Thanks. One more memory - it also helps to copy the shape of the fuse sides onto a piece of scrap cardboard. This makes for easy verification of your bending progress without repeatedly taking the frame over to the plane. It's actually pretty easy to get exactly the right shape for the side rails with something like this.
 
Thankyou

Thanks for the tips guys. After looking at the frame from a few different directions I can see that there are a few options for fixing it. I also worked out that placing a spacer under the rollbar will improve my fit dramatically even though it was perpendicular to the longerons in my case.

It seems apparent that the frame is not going to fit exactly in every place. I just need to get it as close as possible and consider how one or two issues can be hidden.

Richard
 
Slider Frame Frustration

You are not alone, but are one in a long line of Slider Frame Haters. Van is right when he says the weight of the Plexi will distend the front bow. It will distend the rear bow also. He also right when he says there are no more adjustments after the canopy has been drilled to the frame. The only adjustments that are made to the Slider Frame after the canopy is on, is by shimming the front bow height to look like the plans as much as possible with the roll bar.
Rolly Clark
Finish Kit
 
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