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SlickStart

Janekom

Janekom

Well Known Member
Patron
I have installed a SlickStart unit as it has been advised to use it to improve starting on the Lycoming IO-540 with a retard magneto on the left. Looking at the booklet that came with it and how to connect it, it seems to be option A in the booklet. Can someone please verify that.

Secondly - if it is option A, then I do not understand why the SlickStart came with a cable with only two conductors (black and red) when one clearly needs three. 1) GND terminal 2) P-lead 3) Retard terminal
 
Slick Start

Jan,

The way I read the instructions are:

#1 goes to the P Lead
#2 and # 3 are not connected
#4 goes to the starter solenoid.
#5 goes to ground

I used there supplied cable for #1 and #5 and ran a separate wire to #4.

If we have this wrong hopefully others will jump in.

Pat
 
Thanks Pat, this is what I figured, but the moment I saw the cable is one conductor short, I had my doubts.
 
Does any have any experience with add the Slick Start to there RV-10 after flying without it? I've been flying my RV-10 now for 5 years (700 Hrs) and it has started great when cold and Hot starts are usually pretty easy except it take a lot more cranking and yesterday it just refused to start a heat soaked engine. I had to boost it with my car to finally get it started. I'm considering the purchase of the Slick Start module and wondering if anyone could comment of the effects of starting your RV-10 prior to having the module installed and after having it installed. At $620 dollars, I would like to know for sure if it will improve my hot starting. I wish the EMAG was available for our 6 Cylinder engines, I would sooner put the money into that, then the Slick Start, but the Slick Start might be an easy fix for now.

Thanks

Ray
N519RV
 
Slick Start

To answer post#4, I installed a Slick Start on my IO 540 Rocket. I would not not want to do without it. Hot starts are as instant as a cold start. Unlike the cold start, I don't even touch the boost pump. After the left mag is switched on I open the power lever 2/3 full then touch the starter. As soon as it's rolling, I slowly advance the mixture from cut off to about half way forward. It barks to life in less than one crank revolution and I turn on the right mag before reducing the throttle. Make sure it builds a 1000 or so RPM to allow the engine driven fuel pump to pressure up before reducing the throttle. It does not seem to matter if it's been shut down for 5 minutes or 3 hours, the same procedure has worked every time.

Good Luck!:)
 
PS

Prior to the slick start it needed much more cranking when hot. The Slick Start makes it hot start nicer with magnetos than it ever did with an EI.
 
rdoerr01 said:
I wish the EMAG was available for our 6 Cylinder engines, I would sooner put the money into that, then the Slick Start
Click to expand...

I keep in touch with emagair and the 6-cylinder P-Mag has been promised late last year, early this year, in a couple of months and now "we'll have it flying by Oshkosh". Has to be the answer if it ever materialises. I certainly hope so as I have built my panel and electrical system on that basis.
 
Guys, thanks for the replies. You have confirmed what I have been experiencing with hot starts and I think I will order the Slick Start today and get it installed while I wait god knows how long for the 6 cylinder P-Mag.


Ray
 
As the originator of this thread - after 40 hours we are happy with our Slick Start. :D
 
Recently our Slick Start popped the fuse and on replacement again.
I took it out and tested it on the bench with a scope and there is no output.

So I ordered a new one at $700 plus shipping - ouch!

Installed the new one but still no luck. It starts as you release the start key when cold and does not start at all when hot.

I took it off again and confirmed with a scope that it is giving out pulses.
I have buzzed out each and every wire again.
I have replaced the ACS key switch a new one.
No luck.
Wiring is as follows:
1= P lead, 3=Retard terminal, 4= GND, 5=S terminal (+).

The only way to start it now is to have the switch on "Both" and then short out "S" and "Bat" on the switch. When it does run, it seem that it runs a bit rough on the Left mag.

Now I am wondering if it is not something in the magneto that has blown the first Slick Start unit. Is there someone who can explain to me what the retard terminal actually do in the magneto - how does it actally work. Also what I should be able to measure when on terminal 3 of the Slick Start.
Many thanks!
 
It sounds like you do have a problem in the left mag. The retard terminal allows the timing to be retarded, so the spark should happen at top dead center instead of the 20+ degrees in advance of TDC. It sounds like you are getting it to start on the right mag. In the standard Lycoming set up this is not a retard mag, so the mixture is igniting before TDC. You are running a risk of a kick back - the engine being forced to turn backwards due to the fuel buring on the wrong side of TDC. When this happens, you may lose gear teeth on the flywheel, or tale out the starter. I would advise against doing this.

Double check the slick start connections to the mag. If they are okay have a mag shop look at the left mag.

Here's how to check the system as a whole:

Pull all plugs so the engine cannot start. Attach the high voltage lead to one of the plugs fired by the left mag. Lay the plug on a good ground. Turn the prop in the normal direction until approaching TDC on the cylinder belonging to that plug. Jumper 12 volts to the slick start. Slowly turn prop up to TDC. As you get there, you should observe multiple sparks jumping the electrodes. If not, something is wrong.
 
Hi Bob,
I like your idea to fault find it. I will do that. I think I will only remove all the top plugs for example as it is save then.

At this stage my feeling is that there is no spark at all beacuse I do not hear ANY firing at all. Sounds very dead and floods as well.

Because I want to learn and understand, I am wondering how the retard terminal functions. Yes I know it retards the timing. Maybe someone out there as a simple schematic?
 
Retard Breaker Mag

The retard breaker mag has a set of primary points and a set of secondary points which are the retard points. The primary points are grounded when the secondary points are activated for engine start. The primary points are set first and the secondary points are set in reference to the primary points. Do the checks that the last poster indicated; and if the slick start has output it's probably a mag problem. Good luck with it.
 
I don't have a schematic handy but the retard points are placed in parallel with the primary points during start but open 25 deg later than the primary points (0 deg).

So the P lead is held at ground by the retard points, when the retard points open (both points are now open) the mag fires.

If the retard points or cam is worn out (retard points not opening at all), then the LT mag would be disabled during start. The mag switch has the RT mag disabled during start so in this scenero there would be no spark from either mag when the key switch is in the "start" position.
 
Just want to thank Walt and others.
The problem was indeed the retard points not opening and the normal points barely opening due to a worn cam.

New cam, re-adjusted and starting as it should now :D
 
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