Slick Mag Install Question

[Capflyer]

I removed my Slick mag to inspect and adjust the points. It is my left Impulse mag. Question I have is when inserting the timing pin, which direction should I turn the shaft to get the pin in? In the normal direction that clicks the impulse coupling or the the opposite direction.....or does it even matter?

I'm also curious for those that use a feeler gauge to set the points what you set them to. The manual says .008-.012 but is that at their maximum opening? Seems kinda large especially since at that point mine were about .002 when I checked before adjustment.

 

[Walt]

I removed my Slick mag to inspect and adjust the points. It is my left Impulse mag. Question I have is when inserting the timing pin, which direction should I turn the shaft to get the pin in? In the normal direction that clicks the impulse coupling or the the opposite direction.....or does it even matter?

I'm also curious for those that use a feeler gauge to set the points what you set them to. The manual says .008-.012 but is that at their maximum opening? Seems kinda large especially since at that point mine were about .002 when I checked before adjustment.

You don't use a feeler gauge to set points:

E. Using a timing light, adjust the contact points to be
just opening when the frame is against the T- 150
gauge. This will provide a point gap opening of
.008-.010 inches.

You can turn the mag in the opposite direction to insert the pin so you are not fighting the impulse coupler.

PS: I have a link to the slick manual on my website.

 

[Capflyer]

I have the manual, thanks. What timing light are they talking about in the manual, a regular timing light like used for cars or the one used to time the mags? At what points is it connected? I wish I had the e-gap tool but don't and was trying to avoid having to purchase it. An A&P/IA last year did it with a feeler gauge but he is no longer around.

 

[Walt]

The "timing light" (connected to the points) is the mag timing box. Using a feeler gauge to set the gap is not the correct way, setting the "E" gap is important if you wish to obtain the highest spark voltage possible from the mag.

 

[aerhed]

The points need to break at E gap. This is the spot where magnetic flux is at peak. Anything else reduces spark. The point gap is mostly an indication of point/cam condition. Too little gap means a worn cam or follower. To big of a gap could mean worn points. The degrees of rotation the points remain open also affects "reload" for the next shot.

 

[Capflyer]

Thanks guys. The tool looks pretty simple, I will try to fabricate one to get the e-gap set. Any idea what the thickness of the tool is? I'm not cheap, I just do not want to wait a week for it to come in the mail and not sure if I can find one to borrow locally.

 

[aerhed]

I don't want to officially condone this, but you can set E gap by hand with an ohmeter or idiot light. As you rotate the the mag in normal direction you will feel magnetic resistance increase to a peak. Just past this is a null point where the shaft is held in place by magnetism. Continuing in normal direction, you will hit another resistance peak. The null is like a detent between 2 humps. The second hump or peak in normal rotation is what you are after. You want points to pop right at this second "hump". An ohmeter across the points to the case or a light bulb/ battery for a break indicator will let you adjust the points to break right at this peak. If your rotating magnet is strong with a definitive null and peaks, you can set E gap as precisely as you will ever get it with an indicating tool. Make sure the condenser is disconnected (bare points) and that your coupling pawls are not engaging when turning. There is usually an angle you can hold the magneto at while turning that will prevent the pawls from engaging. Otherwise you can tuck them in with your finger while turning.

 

[Capflyer]

Follow up to today's project. I ended up using a 90deg bent pulled rivet and slid that into the magnet slot just as the e-gap tool does. My mag timing light doesn't work like the buzz boxes so not useful and I ended up using my ohm meter. With the rivet against the frame I adjusted the points to just open as shown on the ohm meter then tightened them down. Reassembled the mag and installed. Ran it up and it worked great. Very smooth with a 60 RPM drop which is a lot better than the 150 RPM drop and slight roughness I was having prior. Thanks to everyone that responded, it was very helpful.