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skinning fuse question

scottw

Member
how did you guys do the dimpling/machine csinking. The bottom and top rear skins are .025, the sides are .032, do you dimple both of these then machine csink the longeron? if you dimple just the outside skin then machine the sandwiched skin you really enlarge the hole since the machine csink for a dimple is much deeper than that for a rivet. How should I do it?
 
scottw said:
how did you guys do the dimpling/machine csinking. The bottom and top rear skins are .025, the sides are .032, do you dimple both of these then machine csink the longeron? if you dimple just the outside skin then machine the sandwiched skin you really enlarge the hole since the machine csink for a dimple is much deeper than that for a rivet. How should I do it?
All the skins should be dimpled not countersunk. If you have overlapping skins both skins should be dimpled. If the skins attach to bulkheads the bulkheads should be dimpled also. The thicker longeron and any other thick angle pieces that the skin will attach to will be countersunk.
 
scottw said:
if you dimple just the outside skin then machine the sandwiched skin you really enlarge the hole since the machine csink for a dimple is much deeper than that for a rivet.

Scott: The machine countersink depth/size for a rivet or a dimple should be the same. A common mistake is to attempt to make the machine countersink large enough for the entire dimple. This leads to enormous holes. A rivet will expand in the hole and the shop head will disappear into the hole rather than set properly. I got this info straight from Van's mechanics in the prototype shop. They also told me it was Boeing policy to machine countersink to the same depth for rivets and dimples. So...that is what I have done, with good success.
 
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