Sheesh..... me and these shunts :(

[Darren S]

I upgraded to an Advanced EFIS from steam gauges. I had a Hall effect Amp Transducer and tried to wire this into the harness.

Didn't work. Tried a bunch of stuff as I don't give up easy, but no success.

I just bought the Amp Shunt that Advanced Flight Systems sells and am heading out to the freezing cold hanger tomorrow to try and wire it in. I wanted to check with you fellas to make sure I don't screw it up.

There is a large white wire coming from the Alternator to the 50 AMP breaker. This wire currently runs through the Hall Effect Transducer. I assume this is the B lead. I think I am suppose to cut this wire, put a ring terminal on each end and then mount the ring terminals to each end of the Amp Shunt. I am then to connect two wires. One to the positive end and the other to the negative end.

Forgive my stupidity. Which end is positive and which end is negative ? Is the cutting wire, ring terminal thing correct ?

Much appreciated. Thanks VAF.

Darren

 

[N402RH]

It does not have a direction, call me on my cell if you need help

(503) 701-5042

Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems

 

[sf3543]

Sounds like you have the right idea, but it depends on how you want to use your Volt/Amp gauge. Go to Electronics International's site on this link, http://www.buy-ei.com/Information/OI & II VA-1A.pdf , and look at their installation manual. (Page 9, #3) They give a really good explaination of how to determine which way to install your shunt to be able to read the meter and see the results you want to track. Either in the battery lead or in the alternator lead. You are describing the alternator lead installation, since you are breaking the B lead before the bus in order to install the shunt. You can install the shunt at the end of the B lead or break it and install rings, either side of the firewall.
If the shunt is not marked, the screw on the alternator side of the shunt would be the positive and the one on the bus side would be the negative. They typically have a small + or - stamped on the two terminal blocks. These will need to be hooked up correctly in order for your gauge to work correctly.
Whether it is a separate gauge or a read out on the EFIS, it would be the same, unless AFS specifies something different.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.

 

[AltonD]

When you used the HAL effect transducer, did you turn it on in the setup menu? I have both. I have the shunt on the alternator and I have the HAL on the main bus. Works great. My amp meter is actually two in one on the AFS-3500. The digital cycles back and fourth between the two.

 

[Darren S]

Well, well. I like these kind of fixes !! I called Rob at Advanced and after a quick visit to the hanger I have AMP reading on my EFIS !!! Yippie. As Alton suggested, I didn't have the Hall effect turned on in the calibration menu. Duh... didn't think to look here.

Thanks Rob, thanks VAF.

Darren

 

[AltonD]

Always glad to help.