What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Service Bulletin: SB 12-08-09

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
RV-12 Wheel Fairing Kits shipped before August 9, 2012

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/notices2.htm

Direct link: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb12-08-09.pdf

2jdi614.jpg

V/r,
dr
 
Last edited:
How do we get the doublers?

Thanks for the heads-up Doug. Do you know if Van's will automatically be shipping out the doublers to all purchasers of the wheel farings, or do we all have to call Van's to order them?
 
Last edited:
Inspection done

Inspected the nosewheel pant today (my wife thinks they should be called "boots") and found no cracks. Time in service 158 hours and hundreds of landings, all on paved surfaces:
i-rBpDjsk-L.jpg


I had to strip off the paint to inspect the aluminum. I think I will abraid the paint and put a thin film of fuel tank sealant between the brackets and the doublers, clamp and rivet per the SB. Any thoughts on this idea?

Tony
 
Last edited:
Rec'd doublers the other day. Had no cracks so after a pleasent flight today I planned to install them and did, but not w/o more work than I expected. Of course that's not unusual when working on airplanes as all of you know. The doublers don't quite fit the assembly so had to grind off the radius along edge near front. This places the forward-most hole for the AN426 rivet very close to inside edge (about 1/8") making it impossible to get a rivet squeezer near the thing. So I used a .040 pop rivet (same as the ones holding nutplates on the nose pant and bracket). Before I could put that in I had to drill out the front nutplates on both sides to make room to work. This is always a treat when they are held on with those pesky little .040 pop rivets that like to spin when you try to drill them out. Of course there isn't room for the pop rivet puller there either so installed the rivet top down instead of bottom up. Seems fine in that position, and while it would have better hold power the other way considering the six #8 screws and all the rivets holding the doublers on I don't think they are going anywhere. Also one AN470 rivet on each side falls so close to the cutout that was put in the brackets to allow the bend radius I don't know how effective they are holding as well. There is probably only 1/32" of edge at the hole adjacent to the bend cutout. You don't have a choice here as the #8 screw holes pretty much dictate where the doublers go. Again tho with all the fasteners holding the doublers I believe they (doublers/brackets) are secure. Whole job, including priming the doublers took about 4 hours. Just thought I'd share the adventure with those of you who haven't yet had the fun.
Dick Seiders
 
I think fuel tank sealant is for sealing fuel tanks.

I know this advice is likely too late for you Tony, but if you want to use a faying surface sealant (always a good idea - especially in a moisture prone environment like around the wheels), while also addressing the SEM problem (Short Edge Margin), and increasing the structural strength of the resulting reinforcing doubler assembly, then I suggest a structural adhesive. You would need to get rid of the paint on the fay surfaces first.

Try using Scotch Weld - whole airplanes are assembled with it - some without any fasteners, and some with (the belt and suspenders approach.)

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...Promotions-New-Products/Structural-Adhesives/

Bob Bogash
N737G
 
Went to field today and looked at the wheel pant job. Decided to move the offending forward-most holes inboard about 1/4' to eliminate an interference problem created by the .040 pop rivets (DUH!). Used AN426 rivets in proper orientation and job done. Sometimes you just have to move stuff to get the fit needed. I didn't use proseal, or glue as I don't see how the assembly can move more than .0000001" over the next 40 years. Also feel Van's would specify if it was necessary.
Dick Seiders
 
Went to field today and looked at the wheel pant job. Decided to move the offending forward-most holes inboard about 1/4' to eliminate an interference problem created by the .040 pop rivets (DUH!). Used AN426 rivets in proper orientation and job done. Sometimes you just have to move stuff to get the fit needed. I didn't use proseal, or glue as I don't see how the assembly can move more than .0000001" over the next 40 years. Also feel Van's would specify if it was necessary.
Dick Seiders

I did as Dick did and just moved those forward holes inboard a bit so I could squeeze the rivets. My reason for using fuel tank sealant between the doublers and the brackets was simply to seal the space from moisture that could be thrown up by the nose wheel and might lead to corrosion in between the parts. I agree the 10 rivets and 3 #8 screws will certainly hold the parts together adequately.

Tony
 
Back
Top