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Seat Floor Panels

Capflyer

Well Known Member
Do the floor panels under the seating area need to be removed in the QB fuselage? They are only held in by a couple of pop rivets but has the platenuts attached through the inside edge to the floor bracing.
 
No, they don't have to be removed. The platenuts are on the inside floor edge in order to bolt down the forward center cover and also the flap brace housing.

Some slo-builders, including me, have opted to use platenuts on our floors for removal for inspection purposes, but technically it's not necessary.
 
Yes

Have the lap belt brackets been bolted in? Want to double check the torque? I sure would. I know the QB builders do a fantastic job, but I have heard too many stories about stuff they've missed.

If I were building a QB fuselage, I would drill out those FEW pop rivets (there are only a few for a reason!) and double check everything under there. Particularly F-705, lap belt bracket bolt/nut torque, etc.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
 
50/50

The floor panels where the crotch strap attaches and the sticks come through come off no problem. The ones I'm questioning are the floor panels between those and the baggage floor that have the seat hinges on them. Removing this pannel would entail removing all of the platenuts. Did you guys run any wiring under this panel?
 
Conduit

Ah, I see what you mean. So they riveted the platenuts through the edge of the seat & baggage pans already. I wouldn't bother removing them...just pop rivet the rest of the open holes.

For wiring, yeah, I did run one conduit under the seat/baggage pans through F-705 and F-706. I needed a little more room to run strobe wires since I have one power supply aft of F-706. It's hard to anticipate your wiring needs until you figure out where everything goes and just how big the wire bundles end up being.

I cut an access panel in one of my baggage floors to run the conduit. I'd only recommend doing that if you absolutely have to. You may not need any additional conduit above and beyond the snap bushing runs in the tunnel.

I'd just wait and see how it goes...

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Need them out if doing steps

I'm doing a 7A QB and just removed the floors last night - the ones between F705 & F706. You will need them out if you plan to do steps. I also removed the rear side panels so I could use solid rivets on the steps. The side panels were a real challenge to remove. The aft flanges are put in with AN426-AD4 rivets - those are some tough suckers to get out!
 
dan said:
Ah, I see what you mean. So they riveted the platenuts through the edge of the seat & baggage pans already. I wouldn't bother removing them...just pop rivet the rest of the open holes.

For wiring, yeah, I did run one conduit under the seat/baggage pans through F-705 and F-706. I needed a little more room to run strobe wires since I have one power supply aft of F-706. It's hard to anticipate your wiring needs until you figure out where everything goes and just how big the wire bundles end up being.

I cut an access panel in one of my baggage floors to run the conduit. I'd only recommend doing that if you absolutely have to. You may not need any additional conduit above and beyond the snap bushing runs in the tunnel.

I'd just wait and see how it goes...

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com

Resurrecting an old thread here...

I drilled out the plate nut rivets on those panels this evening, along with the few pop rivets. PITA, but I wanted to be able to double check the lap belt bracket torque- call me paranoid. Turned out the bolts were torqued just fine, but there was what looked like a quarter pound of aluminum chips (ok, I'm exaggerating) under there. Seriously, it was pretty messy. Vacuumed everything up before I left. Tomorrow will be reversing the procedure.
 
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