I did this exact thing about a year ago on my Rv-6A 0-360 c/s propHey out there,
My engine om my -3 has started sagging a bit. I heard a rumor folks have switched their lower mounts to the top, and tops to the bottom.
In the interest of saving close to $700 for a set of new Berry mounts, has anyone done this with success?
Cheers
I may be getting to the point of doing this...very slight sagging from perfectly in line to just a bit low after 11 years. I would NOT cut a slot in the washer, as that seems like a guaranteed way for it to rotate around (heavy side down) and drop out...LOTS of motion on startup and shutdown, plus vibration in flight. Seems like a bad idea to me, but YMMV.I may need to do this as well and I was wondering if we it is safe to just cut a slot for the bolt into the washer so the bolt does not need to be removed, only loosen enough so the washer can be slighted into place?
I agree, only had thought to ask if anyone had done it. The risk is just too great for the additional trouble to pull the bolt out enough to put the washer.I may be getting to the point of doing this...very slight sagging from perfectly in line to just a bit low after 11 years. I would NOT cut a slot in the washer, as that seems like a guaranteed way for it to rotate around (heavy side down) and drop out...LOTS of motion on startup and shutdown, plus vibration in flight. Seems like a bad idea to me, but YMMV.
Slotting the washers works fine. It gets tightly clamped between the engine and the aft half of the isolator, so there is no chance in it coming out.I may be getting to the point of doing this...very slight sagging from perfectly in line to just a bit low after 11 years. I would NOT cut a slot in the washer, as that seems like a guaranteed way for it to rotate around (heavy side down) and drop out...LOTS of motion on startup and shutdown, plus vibration in flight. Seems like a bad idea to me, but YMMV.
Gotcha, and I can see that now. Also, there are two options: put it on the aft side of the top mounts, or the forward side of the bottom mounts. Any reason to do one or the other?Slotting the washers works fine. It gets tightly clamped between the engine and the aft half of the isolator, so there is no chance in it coming out.
No, if you’re going to make an elevation adjustment of the spinner relative to the cowl, it has to be done with spacers between the bottom isolators and the engine case.Gotcha, and I can see that now. Also, there are two options: put it on the aft side of the top mounts, or the forward side of the bottom mounts. Any reason to do one or the other?
Doh! Of course. I see that now.No, if you’re going to make an elevation adjustment of the spinner relative to the cowl, it has to be done with spacers between the bottom isolators and the engine case.
Adding spacers to the backside of the top isolators will just space the head of the bolt further aft, but it will do nothing to change the position of the engine relative to the engine mount.
I was just thinking of using a AN970-7, any reason that it needs to be STD619?For the o-320 anyhow the washer is Lycoming STD619 $16.50 each at ACS. Cheaper than new isolation mounts!
I need to do this in the near term also. Can you give me the outer diameter of that washer? I am going with 1/8" and will just make the washer on the lathe.For the o-320 anyhow the washer is Lycoming STD619 $16.50 each at ACS. Cheaper than new isolation mounts!
If they are sagging, they are loosing/have lost some elasticity. The related energy has to be absorbed somewhere else. I’d strongly consider this point before making my final decision. Anecdotal experience that others may add to the contrary won’t be relevant here. My worthless $0.02
Sorry, washers are at my hangar and it'll be two weeks before I get there again.I need to do this in the near term also. Can you give me the outer diameter of that washer? I am going with 1/8" and will just make the washer on the lathe.