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RV-7/7A sliders in KC area

B

Blaine Asay

Member
I would like to see a functional RV7 slider close to home. I"m having "issues" with the fit. I've tried EAA but with no success. Can anyone suggest a contact in the Kansas City area?
Thanks,
 
Mine was functional about 1 1/2 years ago but I removed it for more access while I finish "everything" else. I looked at a working slider for clues on fitting my canopy frame but the finished product hid what I really wanted to see.

What main issues are you having?
 
I've bent the frame to where I think it needs to be and done the initial cut of the plexi around the base, and have got the slide riveted to the skin. It doesn't seem to be correctly aligned to enable it to slide back without hanging up on the fuselage. I've read the posts and blogs, but would like to see an actual unit. I was afraid that some of it would be buried, but figured it couldn't hurt.
 
KC-7

There is an RV-7 in Lee's Summitt. Bill Gill owns the plane. If you can catch him on the ground I'm sure he wouldn't mind you having a look see. I'll send you his contact info off list.
 
I know of a slider at k34, I'll try to get in touch with him. Another option would be to fly to k81 early and catch the whole breakfast crowd, pretty good odds of seeing a slider...

It's been a while since my canopy and I haven't referenced the plans but as I recall the top rail isn't riveted, it's screwed. I left this drilled undersized and clecoed until the skirts were done so I could make minor adjustments if needed. Where is you canopy hanging up on the fuse, top or sides. If it is the top than the rail needs to be moved.
If it is the sides I would slightly bend the frame out to clear or let the canopy pull it out slightly. If you tape the canopy tight to the frame does it pull the canopy frame outward enough to clear? On mine the inside of the lower canopy frame just clears (1/8 inch) the aft skin when sliding back.
For bending the canopy frame I set the front per Van's plans, then started at the rear where the canopy frame meets the slider rail and set a scrap piece of .063 on the canopy frame and set my ruler on the aft skin and the .063. I adjusted the rear slider rail till the ruler was sitting flush on the aft skin and the .063. I then moved the .063 and ruler down the curve of the canopy frame and marking/bending as I went. Setting the front bow first followed by setting the back bows one at a time left the sides above the longerons right where they needed to be (perfect curve minor hieght difference -1/8). I hate to say it but after a month on and off bending this and bending that I tried this method and I had a good fit in a couple of hours.
 
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Take good notes Blaine, and remember what you did. You can help me in a couple of years! Mine will be a slider, too.
 
You're right, the rail is screwed to the fuse. I have bent the frame to 1/4" inside the side fuse as per the plans, and I understand that they say the canopy will pull it out enough, but I'm afraid by the way it looks, that it won't and then it will be too late. You've provided a very thorough description of the process that I can follow. I appreciate your help. I'll get back to work on it.


crabandy said:
I know of a slider at k34, I'll try to get in touch with him. Another option would be to fly to k81 early and catch the whole breakfast crowd, pretty good odds of seeing a slider...

It's been a while since my canopy and I haven't referenced the plans but as I recall the top rail isn't riveted, it's screwed. I left this drilled undersized and clecoed until the skirts were done so I could make minor adjustments if needed. Where is you canopy hanging up on the fuse, top or sides. If it is the top than the rail needs to be moved.
If it is the sides I would slightly bend the frame out to clear or let the canopy pull it out slightly. If you tape the canopy tight to the frame does it pull the canopy frame outward enough to clear? On mine the inside of the lower canopy frame just clears (1/8 inch) the aft skin when sliding back.
For bending the canopy frame I set the front per Van's plans, then started at the rear where the canopy frame meets the slider rail and set a scrap piece of .063 on the canopy frame and set my ruler on the aft skin and the .063. I adjusted the rear slider rail till the ruler was sitting flush on the aft skin and the .063. I then moved the .063 and ruler down the curve of the canopy frame and marking/bending as I went. Setting the front bow first followed by setting the back bows one at a time left the sides above the longerons right where they needed to be (perfect curve minor hieght difference -1/8). I hate to say it but after a month on and off bending this and bending that I tried this method and I had a good fit in a couple of hours.
Click to expand...
 
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