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RV-6 Wing Skin Riveting

WingsOnWheels

Well Known Member
I am in the process of riveting my top wing skin in place.

Per the drilling plan, I drilled the wing-walk area to #30 for -4 blind rivets (I realized later that -3 rivets are acceptable here also...). I would much rather use solid rivets if possible. Is there any reason not to use 426AD4 rivets here instead of the blind rivets. I know I will probably have to use some blind rivets on the lower skin if I can't get access to buck everything.

Has anyone used -4 rivets in the wingwalk area? Is there a better riveting order than: Top OB, Top IB, Bottom OB, Bottom IB?
 
There is a way to install the wing walk ribs last. The flages must all face inboard, of course. The one furthest from the root goes in, and can be bucked normally. The space is tight but doable. Then do the next...and so on. The inboard most rib can have the rivets "skwozed". My wings were done this way, and do not have any pull rivets. "Try it, you'll like it"
 
Maybe a better idea.

If you have dimpled 3/32nd holes, you can open them up to #30 and use the NAS1097AD4-? without any other adjustments.:cool:

Some people call them oops rivets, I just call them reduced head countersunk rivets. they work real well. You will need to turn up your rivet gun a little.
 
Thanks for the help!

Too late to put the WW ribs in one at a time, I already riveted them to the spar(s). I thought about doing it this way, but wasn't sure about access to the rear spar and flap brace rivets...

Edit:

All the #30 are dimpled for -4 rivets. Thanks
 
I am in the process of riveting my top wing skin in place......Has anyone used -4 rivets in the wingwalk area?....
It's been so long ago I really don't recall that blind rivets were called out as an option. Like a few others, I did manage to build the wings without using any blind rivets.
 
It's been so long ago I really don't recall that blind rivets were called out as an option. Like a few others, I did manage to build the wings without using any blind rivets.

The plans call out blind rivets in the top wingwalk area. I'd rather not use blind rivet if at all possible. Unfortunately, I don't have skinny arms, so I have a feeling getting in to buck all the rivets on the bottom skin may be a problem. We'll see what happens...
 
What Rolf said. If you already have the ribs riveted to the spars, you can probably reach many of the rivets anyway with creative use of bucking bars and hands. This area is usually covered with wing walk/ non-skid material anyway, so nobody will know.
 
What Rolf said. If you already have the ribs riveted to the spars, you can probably reach many of the rivets anyway with creative use of bucking bars and hands. This area is usually covered with wing walk/ non-skid material anyway, so nobody will know.

Thank you for the input! I'll go ahead and buck all that I can, hopefully that will leave few if any that need blid rivets.

Thanks,
 
Bottom skin already on?

When I built my RV-6 wings I removed the bottom skins and back riveted all of the top skin with my 15 year old daughter holding the bucking bar on the outside. This allowed easy access for all of the rivets around the wing walk area which I did install with solid rivets. When I riveted on the bottom skin I was able to reach all of the rivets in the area near the wing root where the closer spaced ribs are. If I remember correctly I think I left the skin loose outboard of the close space ribs so I could pull it out to get to the rivets for bucking. I did all of the bucking of the bottom skin by myself using this method as I progressed outboard. I did not use any pull rivets. It can be done.
 
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Frank,

This sounds a lot like what I am doing (minus the back-riveting). I have all the bottom skins off at the moment and am shooting all the top rivets with the wing open.

On the bottom skin, did you rivet the outboard or inboard section first? Were you able to reach all the rivets at the skin overlap from the access panel hole?

Thanks,
 
This sounds a lot like what I am doing (minus the back-riveting). I have all the bottom skins off at the moment and am shooting all the top rivets with the wing open.

On the bottom skin, did you rivet the outboard or inboard section first? Were you able to reach all the rivets at the skin overlap from the access panel hole?

Thanks,

I just pulled up my pictures (old enough that they are not digital) to jog my memory of how I did it. This is how I remember doing it to the best of my memory. I started with the inboard bottom skin and then the outboard. I clecoed the inner skin to the rear spar and forward 4 or 5 rivets holes. I then lifted the forward edge of the sheet and had access to the rear spar rivets and the three rear most rib rivets in the wing walk area only. I then clecoed the skin down in the wing walk area only and pulled the skin sideways to access the outboard most wing walk rib and riveted it. I then pulled the skin down and clecoed it to the next rib and proceeded to rivet. I continued until the skin was finished except for the area overlapping the outboard skin. If memory serves me right i was able to reach up through the rib holes to rivet the rear spar between the ribs after each rib was riveted. Finally I went back to the wing root and was able to reach up through the ribs to rivet them in place. This was made easier because the rear most rivets that would be hard to reach were already in place.

Once the inboard skin was on I installed the outboard skin onto the first two inboard ribs (were the bell-crank access hole is located). I started riveting the second rib and progressed outboard as I did with the inner skin. I then went back and reached up through the bell-crank hole and riveted the skin overlap joint.

It wasn't that difficult but I had a lot less gray hair then and a smaller belly in the way.
 
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Frank,

Thanks for the help. I'll do so "reach test" this weekend so see how far I can get my arm in the wing. Even if I do end up having to use a blind rivet in a couple spots, I do not want to use any in the skin-splice area since that carries a lot of the load.

Thanks,
 
In the spirit of finishing posts, I fugured I'd make an update:

I got all the skins riveted on. The inboard skin was easier than I expected. I worked inboard to outboard from the bottom up. Starting at the most IB rib riveted to the skin, I reached into the wing from the IB end and riveted the rear spar, next rib and main spar. Once I got through the WW ribs I switch to peeling the skin back to rivet the rear spar, then the lower 2/3 of the rib. I then reached though the lightning hole for the next OB rib to finish the rib and main spar.

For the OB skin I folowed the same basic process. I would rivet the rear spar then up the rib and then 1/2 of the main spar. I left 1/2 of the main spar open since it would let me get my arm in there without bending the skin to much. After i finished the next bay rear spar and rib, I would reach back through the lightning holes to finish the main spar.

Overall it went very well. I had to use a few blind rivets at the bellcrank gusset, I simply did not leave myself enough room here, a mistake I will rectify on the right wing. I also made one slip and put a decent flush-set dent in the OB skin. I was very PO'd at myself and took a chunk out of the concrete floor where I threw my bucking bar at it....ohhh well, at least it is on the bottom.
 
Congratulations on passing the milestone!

I closed mine up pretty much the same way; I used blind rivets in several places as well. Anyone who says anything about them will be summarily kicked and ignored. :)
 
3 wings

I did the same thing. I learned on the left wing and finished the right wing nearly perfect. I thought if I could build one more I would have two that are :) just right!
 
I did the same thing. I learned on the left wing and finished the right wing nearly perfect. I thought if I could build one more I would have two that are :) just right!

I'm with you on that one - lets hope I can get the right wing as close to perfect as possible...
 
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