RV-6 Spar/Fuel line cover plate

[AJ85WA]

Hi guys

Over the years the covers and some drawings for my rv6 have gone missing.
The ones Im talking about is the covers that go on front of the spar and over fuel lines on a rv6.

I got a drawing for the rv7 with part numbers
F-782A R & L
F-983C fuel valve cover
F-983A fuel valve plate
F-782 support ribs.
ect ect

how much different is the rv6? anybody got pictures? drawing would be much appreciated 2. also is the centre tunnel cover mach different?

I would like to make a order to vans but without those part numbers thing are very difficult.

thanks guys

 

[flion]

Those things don't exist for the RV-6/6A. Not that they aren't a bad idea. I used the -7/7A pump cover and floor plate to mount my pump and filter for the Airflow Performance system but it wasn't a perfect match with the -6/6A fuel valve mount. Right now I've got the cover off and am planning to make a new one that fits better. The mounting plate works just fine, though. I seem to recall that you can substitute the -7/7A fuel valve mount and all the parts forward to the firewall, in which case everything should fit just fine (except I really wanted the center console), but I'm not sure you can use the support ribs and covers going outboard on the spars.

 

[AJ85WA]

Thanks flion.

So what I understand from your post is that there is a valve cover and mounting plate part number for the rv6 but nothing else?

So what covers/protects the fuel lines running under ur feet, surely there should be a drawing or some covers over them?

Thanks AJ

 

[WingsOnWheels]

Here is what I did on my -6A. I have the later fueslage kit with the RV-7 firewall. I don't have the part numbers with me, but can look them up when I get home. The only part I used from the kit was the RV-7 tunnel, everything else was fabbed from sheet I had around.

If you have an older RV-6 built to plans, the RV-7 tunnel won't quite fit. The distance between the two center stiffeners are a little different. I modified mine when I built the floor. I think it was less than 1/4" difference so the tunnel cover may fit on the outside of the stiffeners rather than in between.

 

[WingsOnWheels]

One other thing. The valve plate that Vans sends with the newer kits does not match the plans or anything from the RV-7, so don't count on it fitting an existing installation. It looks like they changed the installation but didn't document it in the plans.

 

[L.Adamson]

With the older "six" plans, which placed the battery in an enclosure against the cockpit side of the firewall............fuel lines usually were placed along the left side of the cockpit. That's how mine is done.

 

[JonJay]

If you have an older RV-6 built to plans, the RV-7 tunnel won't quite fit. The distance between the two center stiffeners are a little different. I modified mine when I built the floor. I think it was less than 1/4" difference so the tunnel cover may fit on the outside of the stiffeners rather than in between.
/QUOTE]

It fits like a glove over the stiffners. Blind luck. You then put your nut plates on the stiffners. Be careful to route your fuel lines and anything else you want to route through the tunnel away from the edges where the screws penetrate.
I did the same with the 7 parts with the exception that I am injected, so I used the parts designed for the airflow performance pump set up as ordered from Van's.
I was able to use all of the stock parts by just adding an extension to the side pieces of the fuel selector valve "house" and remake the fuel selector plate to fit. Really easy fab....

 

[az_gila]

Note that whatever you come up with in the spar/floor area - the end of all of the stiffeners need small brackets (or some equivalent) that are bolted/riveted to both the spar and the stiffener. These are easy to overlook on the original plans.

The RV-7 center floor cover may be too short for the -6 depending on your fuel valve mount arrangement.

I used an Andair fuel valve with a new support structure. I used the forward vertical part of the center cover - the heat box portion - and made my own cover from 0.020. My cover is about 3/8 inch higher than the stiffeners and will now cover my fuel flow sensor without a "hump".

 

[flion]

Thanks flion.

So what I understand from your post is that there is a valve cover and mounting plate part number for the rv6 but nothing else?

So what covers/protects the fuel lines running under ur feet, surely there should be a drawing or some covers over them?

Thanks AJ

The others are giving you good info. Just to clarify, there is only a fuel valve mounting plate for the stock -6. There is no cover for any of the lines. You will have to fabricate anything you require.

 

[JonJay]

Additionally, if you get the tunnel parts for the 7, as shown in the pics above, you get the nice cabin heat outlet cover that has the louvers.
This distributes the cabin heat better, a nice plus.
I chose not to use the full tunnel and cut it off short of the firewall and just below the louvers. I have control cables going through that area and did not want to monkey with the work around. It is also one less access plate to fiddle with.

 

[mike647m]

Gil, where in the RV-6 plans do you see the two center 3/4" floor angles (stiffeners) attached to the spar? I plan on tying the RV-7 center tunnel (which is screwed to the floor angles at the end near the spar) to the fuel selector housing. I would rather not remove those large center section bolts to attach two small brackets to the floor stiffeners (angles).

Mike

 

[JonJay]

Gil, where in the RV-6 plans do you see the two center 3/4" floor angles (stiffeners) attached to the spar? I plan on tying the RV-7 center tunnel (which is screwed to the floor angles at the end near the spar) to the fuel selector housing. I would rather not remove those large center section bolts to attach two small brackets to the floor stiffeners (angles).

Mike

Don't mean to answer for Gil, but you do not need to add the brackets here. The fuel selector "dog house" for lack of a better description serves that same purpose. It ties the floor stiffners to the spar and supports them just fine.
You will need to add the angles to the other floor stiffners and as Gil mentioned, they are easily missed.

 

[az_gila]

Don't mean to answer for Gil, but you do not need to add the brackets here. The fuel selector "dog house" for lack of a better description serves that same purpose. It ties the floor stiffners to the spar and supports them just fine.
You will need to add the angles to the other floor stiffners and as Gil mentioned, they are easily missed.

That's OK to answer for me...

I was trying to say that if you redesign the fuel selector supports, the lower end of whatever you make has to also support the inner stiffeners.

If you use the original -6 supports then it is taken care of as JonJay says...

I'm not sure if the RV-7 parts you are using really attach to the -6 center section - as you know, the -7 structure is way dfferent here... The -6 does use the large wing mounting bolts for floor support.

I had to make a different support system due to use of an early Andair valve. I'll try and add some pics...

 

[OneCharlieKilo]

-6/6A fuel lines

AJ,
Not sure if your intent is to modify to something more like the -7/7A design, but the -6/6A plans I built to don't use the center tunnel. As was mentioned earlier in the thread, the fuel lines run up the left side of the cockpit and battery box sized for the larger Concorde battery is against firewall where that -7/7A center channel runs (one of my future mods is to change out the Concorde for smaller PC-680 and modify that box). I thought during the build that the fuel pump and lines along my left leg would be in the way but I haven't found that to be an issue.

Photos of my install from build phase are below.

Electric boost pump and supply line to firewall (left tank pickup line also visible):

right side, showing right tank pickup line:

Partially assembled battery box assembly that goes where the -7/7A center channel assembly is installed (cable holes not cut in the pic and extension arms not installed that extend towards wing spar and attach to the floor stiffeners to give structural support provided by box structure of center channel in later design):

Having shown all that, the -7/7A design is cleaner, looks nicer, and puts a lighter battery further forward, so I'd probably modify my -6/6A to that design if I was early enough in the build.

 

[WenEng]

If you are going with the original RV6 Fuel Selector..

Three parts look like this.. go back and double check your parts boxes....

and that top F683A connects to the vertical control column channel F682. Plan dwg 47 shows the fabrication dimensions of all the parts. I can post that if you need it. This whole support structure bolts to the front spar through the steel spar connectors and has fuel line holes you drill in the sides to match up with what OneCharlieKilo showed you with the fuel line runs.
I'm like Colin and others who are adapting that area to resemble the 7 plans. It's some fabricating work but not difficult.

 

[JonJay]

I should have been more clear. The parts on the 7 for the fuel selector valve housing have angled sides, intended to be screwed onto the angled front part of the seat pan ribs on the 7. The 6 is way different here. There is no structure except the spar itself.
What I did was add onto the sides of the 7 part and added a flange so it could mate up with the bolts in the main spar. Each side ties into one bottom and one top spar bolt. There is no other way to secure it to the spar that I am aware of.
In turn, this will support the floor stiffners when tied into them.
So, yes, you need to remove some wing spar bolts to secure it. Sorry.

 

[AJ85WA]

thanks guys

Hi guys

Thanks for the excelent replies.
I believe I will remove the battery box from the inside and mount it on the firewall and run the lines under the center cover.

WenEng would you mind posting that drawing for me? Either to [email protected] or on the forum

Thanks heaps guys

 

[WenEng]

AJ.. I sent you an email with the drawing.

Its a PDF file that you can zoom in to see the detail you are looking for on drawing 47.

 

[AJ85WA]

My version of DIY Covers

Well it took me about 10 hours and lots of head scratching but this is what I came up with, most of the parts were modified in some shape or form from the RV7 Cabin covers but I managed to make it work and it looks kinda neat, even tho most will be covered in carpet anyway Thanks again for all the ideas guys

 

[WenEng]

Nice job and well thought out....

Thinking along that line for my own -6A build soon. Just have to get my head around if covers help or hinder inspections in between annuals. Like the way you adapted the 7 plans to the 6.

 

[JonJay]

Well it took me about 10 hours and lots of head scratching but this is what I came up with, most of the parts were modified in some shape or form from the RV7 Cabin covers but I managed to make it work and it looks kinda neat, even tho most will be covered in carpet anyway Thanks again for all the ideas guys"


Excellent job. You really don't "need" covers there but they do a nice job of cleaning up things. It does appear, but it could be just the photo, that the fuel line will pass through the cover. If that is the case you might consider cutting out the hole the fuel line goes through so you can completely remove the covers. They will be in the way when you do your CI.

 

[AJ85WA]

Slotted

Hi

Thanks for the advise, but I guess you cant see it in that photo but the holes in the front covers are slotted and this makes the cover removable without touching the fuel lines.

Cheers AJ

 

[aussieflyer1]

Gila RV6 cover

I have a QB 2002 kit, do you have pics of your work on the RV6 as I'm looking at doing the valve and center myself now.
Thanks
[email protected]

Note that whatever you come up with in the spar/floor area - the end of all of the stiffeners need small brackets (or some equivalent) that are bolted/riveted to both the spar and the stiffener. These are easy to overlook on the original plans.

The RV-7 center floor cover may be too short for the -6 depending on your fuel valve mount arrangement.

I used an Andair fuel valve with a new support structure. I used the forward vertical part of the center cover - the heat box portion - and made my own cover from 0.020. My cover is about 3/8 inch higher than the stiffeners and will now cover my fuel flow sensor without a "hump".