RV-12: Trimming Canopy Fiberglass

[Geico266]

Well, everything was going pretty good, but today was one of those days I get a sickening feeling in the pit of your stomach when I don't like how something turns out.

I finished the fiberglass finishing and trimmed the fiberglass to the "final trim line" per the instructions. I even left 3/32" in case there was a little I was off, or that I should leave on. Below are the results. They are not even, but it matches the RV-12 fiberglass that Van himself posted in this month's issue of the RV8ter.

What do you guys think?

 

[rvbuilder2002]

It actually looks pretty good to me. Just finish the gaps so that it looks even.
Besides, you need to radius the fwd upper corner to clear the skin as the canopy opens... DO NOT OPEN THE CANOPY THE WAY IT IS RIGHT NOW!
Also trim the relief on the right side back a little more. The intent is for that screw to be removable with the canop[y installed. This will allow the fwd top skin to be removed for repairs/maint. without removing the canopy

 

[JBPILOT]

How does it open ?

If you have the struts on, open it all the way. That will tell you what you have to trim. I had to round the lower front corners so they would not catch coming down again. Also, the nose has to be rounded off or it will rub also on the front dash top wing thingy.

John Bender

 

[Geico266]

Yea, I played around with adding layup material to cover the entire area, but the way it swings when it opens it just won't work. You definately want enough clearance for paint and side to side movement of the canopy. This is just one of those areas that is butt ugly on the -12.

 

[MartySantic]

Yep, you have to cut some more off the top forward, the forward side to make the left and right side even, a bit off the bottom forward. The frame will move a bit in and out on the bushings. Account for it. Do not add some more!! Post a couple of pictures when you are done. Even tho I do not like it either, there MUST be a gap forward of the pivot bolt.

Don't understand what Scott posted, maybe he can clarify.........."Also trim the relief on the right side back a little more."

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Don't understand what Scott posted, maybe he can clarify.........."Also trim the relief on the right side back a little more."

oops...should have said left side. See how the screw is partially covered? The intent of that joggle in the layup is so that the screw can be accessed with the canopy still on the airplane. This way all of the fwd top skin screws can be removed to gain access behind the panel without having to go through the process of removing the canopy

 

[Geico266]

oops...should have said left side. See how the screw is partially covered? The intent of that joggle in the layup is so that the screw can be accessed with the canopy still on the airplane. This way all of the fwd top skin screws can be removed to gain access behind the panel without having to go through the process of removing the canopy

I see your point, but all you should need to do it tip the canopy up. You would have to do this anyway to access the screws under the arm.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I see your point, but all you should need to do it tip the canopy up. You would have to do this anyway to access the screws under the arm.

It's ok if you don't believe me...you will find out later...
When you tip the canopy open, this is the one screw that cannot be accessed. Because of the geometry the frame still blocks it in the open position.

 

[JBPILOT]

Hey Scott

I understand and agree with your point about screw access. I guess my thinking is, if you really need to get into the top of the dash for some reason, why not take the canopy off. It will still be in the way as I see it. During the build, the wife and I got pretty good at taking it off. I guess, at this point, I don't see much reason to take the dash top skin off. Maybe have not thought that thru far enough, but would seem to be easier to take the left dash front piece off if service is needed. I hope I don't have to remove the dash top ever. Again, have not thought that thru very far. Maybe there will be needs I have not thought about.

John Bender

 

[Peterk]

What a horrible thought...taking any of this off. Now that I have it on I don't want to take any of it off...I guess if that need arises I will just build a new one..hahah.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

During the build, the wife and I got pretty good at taking it off. I guess, at this point, I don't see much reason to take the dash top skin off. Maybe have not thought that thru far enough, but would seem to be easier to take the left dash front piece off if service is needed.

John Bender

I think you are correct that their shouldn't be much reason to remove the top skin, and removing the left instrument panel section does give you some access. If you ever decided that you did need to remove the top skin (technically, you should for every condition inspection), by making the two previously mentioned screws removable with the canopy closed, you can remove the cover without removing the canopy. Their really is no safe way to remove the finished canopy solo. This way, it doesn't matter whether someone is around to help you or not.

 

[Geico266]

It's ok if you don't believe me...you will find out later...
When you tip the canopy open, this is the one screw that cannot be accessed. Because of the geometry the frame still blocks it in the open position.

Ahhhh! I get what you are saying now! Sometimes it takes a while for the light to come on.