Load meter modification
Hi Joe, It would be great if you could provide details, as the current system is not of much use. Best regards, Vern
Buy a 22,000?f 25vdc capacitor (higher voltage is OK, lower is not). And buy an inline 30amp ATC fuse holder. Do NOT buy a fuse holder made for AGC or glass fuses because they are prone to failure. Here is a picture of an ATC fuse holder:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/55566/Bussmann_HHD_Fuse_Holder?s=1
Disconnect the negative lead from the battery.
The capacitor is polarity sensitive. If connected backwards, the smoke will get out. Connect the positive lead of the capacitor and one end of the inline fuse holder to the big fat terminal on the load side (NOT battery side) of the battery master contactor. Connect the negative lead of the capacitor to ground. Remove the 30amp Main fuse from the Control Board and put it into the inline fuse holder. Put a 3amp or 5amp fuse into the Control Board Main where you just took out the 30 amp fuse. A fuse should be in this slot to connect the on-board capacitor (not required but desirable).
On the back of the control board is a big plug with two fat wires. The passenger side wire comes from the battery. The pilot side wire comes from the alternator. Cut the alternator wire at the correct point so that it can be pulled forward through the firewall grommet and connect to the free end of the inline fuse holder. Behind the panel, put tape or heat shrink or an insulated butt connector on the end of the cut wire. This wire can be used for another circuit if desired (with the extended circuit protected by the proper size fuse in the Main slot).
You are done. Connect the negative lead back onto the battery.
Current from the alternator will charge the battery without going through the load meter shunt. You will no longer have any indication of battery charge or discharge current. However, if the voltage is above ≈ 13.5, then you will know that the battery is charging.
Now that there is only one big fat wire going to the Control Board, any current flowing through the on-board shunt will be current used by the aircraft: a load-meter. It does not matter if the current is coming from the alternator or from the battery (if the alternator fails); the load-meter will show the total load. You can turn equipment on or off and watch the AMPS display on the Dynon go up or down, that is if Dynon fixes the erratic reading that builders are seeing.
Disclaimer: I have not tested this modification and am not recommending it. Do it at your own risk. Tell your survivors not to sue me!
![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Joe
PS Instead of cutting the alternator wire behind the instrument panel, it can be cut at the existing splice that is about 3 inches from the voltage regulator. Insulate the cut end that goes to the panel. Attach a new wire to the two joined wires from the regulator and connect the other end of the new wire to the inline fuse. Doing it this way keeps all modifications forward of the firewall. And if you do not like the new circuit, it can be restored to original condition. The capacitor can be mounted with a cushion clamp to a starter contactor mounting bolt. The negative capacitor lead can be attached at the same mounting bolt. Use a short piece of 20awg Tefzel about 3" long between the positive lead of the capacitor and master contactor fat load stud. This will act as a fuselink in case the capacitor ever shorts out.