Geico266
Well Known Member
I finished up the fuel tank today and I have a few tips that may help the next pro seal rookie. Actually, not much I can say about pro-seal that has not been already said. What I can offer is a few tips, and maybe other RV-12 builders can post their tips as well to help the next guy.
1. Wait to install the fuel tank fuel sender and 6" plate until the vary last step. This will help you in installing the return fuel line which needs to end in the fill neck.
2. If you followed instructions and gooped the fuel sender in per the plans (and you don't want to remove it) then you'll need my next tip to "capture" the return fuel line. Leave the return line straight after bending the 1st 90 degree turn (parallel to the top tank skin). Instead of making 2 "clips" as called out in the plans make 2 clamps (like an Adel clamp minus the rubber) using a 5/16" drill (something round) and wrap the .020 aluminum around the drill. Drill a #30 hole in the tang part of the clamp and rivet it to the inside of the top per the plans. Now feed the return line though the clamps and feed it though the fill neck. Presto! Problem solved. You can gently lift the top skin for pro-seal and rivet the skin in place.
3. Van's suggestion of putting pro-seal in a 35CC farm syringe is a good one after you drill out the end alittle. I have used baker's bags also with a number #7 tip to get a nice neat fillet around the firewall, a lot less mess.
4. After you pull the rivet there is a bead of pro seal around the head. Take a disposable shop towel and dip it in acetone and clean away the excess. This can by done a day ot two after riveting, but it is easier to do right after you dip and pull the rivet.
5. Being able to call a few good builder buddies like Marty & JohnB = Priceless!
This thread is worthless without pics!
1. Wait to install the fuel tank fuel sender and 6" plate until the vary last step. This will help you in installing the return fuel line which needs to end in the fill neck.
2. If you followed instructions and gooped the fuel sender in per the plans (and you don't want to remove it) then you'll need my next tip to "capture" the return fuel line. Leave the return line straight after bending the 1st 90 degree turn (parallel to the top tank skin). Instead of making 2 "clips" as called out in the plans make 2 clamps (like an Adel clamp minus the rubber) using a 5/16" drill (something round) and wrap the .020 aluminum around the drill. Drill a #30 hole in the tang part of the clamp and rivet it to the inside of the top per the plans. Now feed the return line though the clamps and feed it though the fill neck. Presto! Problem solved. You can gently lift the top skin for pro-seal and rivet the skin in place.
3. Van's suggestion of putting pro-seal in a 35CC farm syringe is a good one after you drill out the end alittle. I have used baker's bags also with a number #7 tip to get a nice neat fillet around the firewall, a lot less mess.
4. After you pull the rivet there is a bead of pro seal around the head. Take a disposable shop towel and dip it in acetone and clean away the excess. This can by done a day ot two after riveting, but it is easier to do right after you dip and pull the rivet.
5. Being able to call a few good builder buddies like Marty & JohnB = Priceless!
This thread is worthless without pics!
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