Cbull
Active Member
Hi All,
I've read many posts about finishing windows, and I would like to add my process to the group for opinion. I've read about the cracks between "plexi" and Fiberglass. Through my investigation on VAF I came to the conclusion that I wanted to place a layer of fiberglass over the plexi to tie everything in. I also wanted a definite transition from canopy to window. More than just paint, but 1/8" or so fillet. So I used 3M double sided tape outside of the window, but aligned with the inside of the canopy (covered the window glue), as a way to keep a 3/32 or so reveal on the outside of the window. I should also mention that I used electrical tape directly to the plexi and 3M tape on top of that. I used West System 407 and will follow with 410 fairing compound around the windows, remove the tape to reveal a lip, sand it smooth/straight and then ease the edge to create the final product. Pictures will hopefully explain more.
There could be a little extra drag there when all said and done and replacing a broken window will be difficult.
3M Tape applied after window set with Lord Adhesive
After 3M tape removed, a little sanding, then electrical tape removed
Example of eased edge. Ended up redoing this and will ease all edges just prior to shooting the primer. I have at least 3/4" of fiberglass and filler on top of the window at this point. I may still paint a black trim ring around the window just so that no part of the inside lip can be seen. Wacha think?
I've read many posts about finishing windows, and I would like to add my process to the group for opinion. I've read about the cracks between "plexi" and Fiberglass. Through my investigation on VAF I came to the conclusion that I wanted to place a layer of fiberglass over the plexi to tie everything in. I also wanted a definite transition from canopy to window. More than just paint, but 1/8" or so fillet. So I used 3M double sided tape outside of the window, but aligned with the inside of the canopy (covered the window glue), as a way to keep a 3/32 or so reveal on the outside of the window. I should also mention that I used electrical tape directly to the plexi and 3M tape on top of that. I used West System 407 and will follow with 410 fairing compound around the windows, remove the tape to reveal a lip, sand it smooth/straight and then ease the edge to create the final product. Pictures will hopefully explain more.
There could be a little extra drag there when all said and done and replacing a broken window will be difficult.
![dpfx90.jpg](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.tinypic.com%2Fdpfx90.jpg&hash=07ef67660c1d3d99fb1f04c4c46eece3)
3M Tape applied after window set with Lord Adhesive
![2dgouhk.jpg](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi68.tinypic.com%2F2dgouhk.jpg&hash=bfcb916fbb97c525ad570cca47d19da4)
After 3M tape removed, a little sanding, then electrical tape removed
![30djptv.jpg](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi67.tinypic.com%2F30djptv.jpg&hash=d0e65ffc88f0d118e5a783b78281ea2e)
Example of eased edge. Ended up redoing this and will ease all edges just prior to shooting the primer. I have at least 3/4" of fiberglass and filler on top of the window at this point. I may still paint a black trim ring around the window just so that no part of the inside lip can be seen. Wacha think?
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