Pat,
Before you convict any specific item, you need to do a little investigative work. Go to this web page and follow the troubleshooting guide
http://www.skytecair.com/troubleshooting.htm.
The first two key items to measure are:
1. Voltage at Battery when cranking should be > 11V
2. Voltage at starter while cranking > 10V
Then connect the leads of the voltmeter from the input terminal to the output terminal of the starter solenoid, then measure the following:
3. Voltage drop measured across the master solenoid < .3 V
4. Voltage drop measured across the starter solenoid < .3 V
To check your grounding system, measure the voltage drop from the case of the starter to the negative terminal of the battery. You will have to extend the voltmeters leads to do this. This will verify you have a good ground path. You should not have more than .5V drop. A good ground should not have more than .1V drop. Is the ground strap at least equivalent to a #2 gauge wire?
You can measure your voltage drop across each cable in the same manner as you measure the drop across the solenoids. A poorly crimped terminal can cause issues, as well as wire being of too small a gauge. #2 copper wire should be the minimum gauge used.
Record all your measurements and then determine the next step. Setting this all aside, if you have 11 volts to your starter while cranking, the starter is the culprit.
Another issue which can cause this, un-related to the starter voltage is timing advance. Did you hook up the ignition switch properly? Assuming you have 2 mags, the right mag "P" lead should be grounded when the switch is in the crank/start position. The right mag is disabled during cranking. If it is not, then timing being too advanced on the right mag will cause this. Do you have the slick start module hooked up correctly to the retard breaker and "p" lead on the left mag? Is it getting power?
I would purchase the solenoid from Vans or ACS. There are 2 versions, continuous duty (Master) and intermittent duty (Starter).
