RV-10 emp gotchas

[BlackRV7]

I'm trying to get my head wrapped around starting on this 10 emp and would like some insight. I've spent quite a few hours cruising numerous 10 build websites. I haven't seen any mention of a gotcha that stands out, other than the SB on the tail cone, but anyone care to comment on anything they found either worked well or did not work well during their 10 emp build?

Thanks,

 

[flion]

Dana, check out myRV10.com which has tips and gotchas. For the empennage, at least the surfaces (still working the tail cone), the big one seems to be the leading edge vs. the ribs. Aggressive pre-forming of the leading edge ribs allowed me to avoid the dreaded 'rib dimple'. Also, if you are going to put a trim tab in the rudder, you might as well plan for it before you skin it as after. I have found nothing in the tail cone yet but I am doing a lot of optional systems so I'm deviating somewhat from the plans' order of assembly.

 

[BlackRV7]

Dana, check out myRV10.com which has tips and gotchas. For the empennage, at least the surfaces (still working the tail cone), the big one seems to be the leading edge vs. the ribs. Aggressive pre-forming of the leading edge ribs allowed me to avoid the dreaded 'rib dimple'.

Hey thanks Patrick. It helps to have built one before to know the things like that dang dimple. Thanks for the refresh.

 

[dhmoose]

Modifications to the empennage?

Patrick...aside from the rudder trim mod, what other mods are you planning that relate to the empennage? I ask cuz I'm working on the horiz stab and want to make sure I don't skip a step/mod that costs me twice the time to go back and add! Thanks, David

 

[rleffler]

Patrick...aside from the rudder trim mod, what other mods are you planning that relate to the empennage? I ask cuz I'm working on the horiz stab and want to make sure I don't skip a step/mod that costs me twice the time to go back and add! Thanks, David

I installed rear naca vents, Avery rudder trim fairings, and Van's AHRS tray. With that said, none of these need to be installed now. I did them all well after the empennage was completed.

There are also several other options for the rudder trim. Several folks sell a set of springs to install on your rudder pedals which is a less intrusive modification.

 

[Mouser]

Here is a list of modifications I made/am making to the empennage for your consideration:

Wire bundle and conduit within the VS for possible future installation of a camera and/or antenna in the VS tip fairing.

Removable VS tip fairing (via nutplates in the fairing).

Bonding straps between VS and Rudder, HS and Elevators.

Nutplates for static wicks.

Rudder trim tab w/ servo.

Tail position/strobe light.

Removable lower rudder fairing.

Rudder cable exit fairings on the tail cone.

NACA intakes for overhead console ventilation.

NAV antenna hardpoint (a la Tim Olson's installation).

ELT antenna hardpoint (top center of tail cone).

ELT mount bracket (using the right-side variant of Van's strobe PS mount tray).

Oxygen tank/valve/regulator/fill station/pressure sender.

External power receptacle/contactor/OVM/breaker/indicator.

Elevator autopilot servo.

Custom magnetometer tray.

Conduits for tidy wire routing within tail cone.

Odyssey 925 battery box.

Custom grounding plate with two AN4-sized nutplates and a forest-of-tabs.


Hope that gives you some ideas.
-Mouser
#40988

http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/

 

[Mike S]

Do some planning about the wiring run for the strobe and position light, and trim servo (if used).

A removable bottom fairing on the rudder would make a lot of sense for access to these wiring runs.

For a trim tab, you get two choices, fixed or adjustable, and for the adjustable, you get a couple more choices, inset into the rudder, or piece of hinge added on at the trailing edge.

Either way, you need to think about the servo mount, and reinforcement for the rudder skin.

When you get to the elevator trim, just do what the plans say------it looks crazy and just "plane" wrong, but it works just fine.

 

[flion]

Interesting, Mouser, that we independently seem to have arrived at the same oxygen bottle mounting solution. After my thread last month about putting it on the other side, it turned out to be moot because the condenser shroud for the air conditioning is on the right side so the bottle goes left. That means the stock Van's AHRS tray won't work so I am using it as a template to make one for the right side outboard of the servo, along with a magnetometer mount on the deck at the horizontal stabilizer. By the way, I don't consider the tail strobe/position light to be a mod, and you forgot to mention the SafeAir kit, which I am also using and recommend.

For my project, and mentioned in another thread with photos, I modified the bellcrank/battery mount to accept an RG25-11 battery. That and the air conditioning install should begin before riveting the tail cone. Yes, they can be retro-fitted but the condenser plenums will be easier to cut and rivet before the rest of the tail cone structure.

I'll also be pre-wiring the fuselage as I go but no conduit routed yet until I get tail cone and forward fuselage mated. I'm still working to finalize the harness from Aerotronics. I'll also be adding an ELT antenna doubler. I've got cat whiskers for NAV but didn't like the puck under the fuselage. I was thinking about glassing a streamlined fairing for it but I've decided to internalize the mount in the tail-cone so I will soon be fabricating that - pictures to follow.

The lesson learned from the -6A was to do as much of the systems planning as possible before closing structure because it can be fantastically difficult to install some things later. The tail surfaces are not so critical; with the exception of trims and pre-wiring the VS for NAV, beacon, and/or camera, but after that it really helps to have an idea of what will be installed so you can prepare for it by pre-wiring, installing mounting brackets/hardpoints/etc., and making access possible for installation/maintenance.

 

[TSwezey]

The only gotcha I can think of is to have the wing kit on order or ready to order because you will probably fly through the emp kit.

 

[Auburntsts]

Todd's right but even if you weren't a repeat offender. I was just filling out my fuse order form and took a look at the lead times and wings are currently at 17 weeks. That's about what it took to get mine when I ordered them this past Sep -- of course Van's was listing only an 8-week lead time back then.

 

[BlackRV7]

Thanks for the different heads up gang. Quite a few different things to consider than when I built my 7. Yes, I have thought about the lead time for the wings. Although the 10 emp, with tail cone, will take more time to build than the 7, being a repeat offender has it's pluses and minuses....experience will probably have me spending my money quicker

 

[ChrisC]

anyone care to comment on anything they found either worked well or did not work well during their 10 emp build?

Things which have bit me so far (working on horizontal stabilizer now):

• The VS front ribs still cause dents in leading edge of VS skin. Remove about 1/8" or so from the front.
• In spite of multiple checks, I still managed to rivet a rudder stop on backwards. Don't do that.
• The rivets provided for the rudder hinge bracket are too short. Also, longer ones are not included in the kit. Order some longer ones online.
• R-1004 had some cracks between the two pieces, causing the flange holes to be misaligned. I ordered a replacement, which had similar cracks (but the flange holes were okay on that one). Check and measure this part carefully.
• Edge roll the leading edge of the rudder before rolling it around a pipe. (This is also where I learned that if you buy 1 1/4" PVC pipe, they are talking about ID and not OD. And Van's instructions appear to mean OD.)
• I read all sorts of fancy techniques for doing the rudder trailing edge online. The technique in Van's instructions (glue-then-rivet) worked just fine for me, and gave me a straight-as-an-arrow trailing edge.

Chris