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Rudder pedal location?

bret

bret

Well Known Member
Flipped the canoe last night, ( took for ever ) so of course I sat in the shell and threw in the rudder/brake assembly, and could not decide on a mounting location, I know there is a lot of geometry involved with rudder throw and brake application, so my question is did you set it up with the peddles at a 90 deg to the longeron or to the rear a certain deg. Thanks, Bret.
 
If you paid close attention when you installed the master cyl's, your brake pedals will be parallel when the entire assy is installed in the ac. The brake pedals should be tilted toward the firewall with the weldment tilted toward the pilot.

With the unit installed, tie a string on each pedal so you can sit in the plane and push the ruder pedals with your feet as you keep from applying any pressure on the brakes.
 
Another big issue to think about, Bret: make sure you plan for the height of the rudder pedal with whatever carpeting and/or padding you might expect to have on the floor in the finished state.

For example, I just now after about 60 hours flying, installed carpet on top of 3/8" foam, bringing my floor height to the level of the floor stiffeners. As I expected, this lifted my feet high enough that the balls of my feet now rest at about brake pedal height rather than rudder pedal height which is where they should be to best avoid inadvertant braking. Were I to do it again, during initial construction I would lift the whole rudder assembly with spacers to account for this addition to floor height. Doing so would also require the center support be riveted to the firewall in a higher position than I originally riveted it. If you start high you can always add or remove spacers to lower the rudder pedals later but, once you rivet the center support in place, the high limit of your rudder pedals becomes permanent. (This problem is even worse for those who get the even thicker carpeting and padding that Classic Aero offers.)

Otherwise, as others have said above, the rudder pedal weldment should be tilted slighted toward the pilot with the brake pedals angled slightly toward the firewall relative to the pedal weldment.

Hope this helps.
 
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alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Another big issue to think about, Bret: make sure you plan for the height of the rudder pedal with whatever carpeting and/or padding you might expect to have on the floor in the finished state.

For example, I just now after about 60 hours flying, installed carpet on top of 3/8" foam, bringing my floor height to the level of the floor stiffeners. As I expected, this lifted my feet high enough that the balls of my feet now rest at about brake pedal height rather than rudder pedal height which is where they should be to best avoid inadvertent braking.
Click to expand...

You might want to try sliding the pedal assembly ahead about an inch if you have room. Don't extend the cable links. This will give you more tilt and will also allow the rudder bar to lift a little.
 
Hey Gasman! If I paid atention? Just kidding, hey I thing I met you at Greg's BBQ at the Reno air race last year ya no? Any way, yes there a lot of ifs and what if, I just want to get it close so I don't have to do any yoga moves to change it. So you are saying the weldment should be slightly back and the peddles parallel with the weldment right? And a good note on carpet and possibly a false raised floor. And what about shoe size..... So where should the ball of your foot be? Ideally? So many questions, sorry.
 
My opinion... ball of your foot (with shoes on, heels resting on the floor) should be on the bottom tube of the rudder pedal. Then you can only apply brake if you consciously slide your heels up off the floor.

L&R rudder pedal bottom tubes should be inline with each other at neutral rudder, then set the brake pedal angles so that they are on the same plane. It's not terribly critical though, just make sure you don't angle the brake pedals too much toward you.
 
Steve,

(Another big issue to think about, Bret: make sure you plan for the height of the rudder pedal with whatever carpeting and/or padding you might expect to have on the floor in the finished state)

I had the same issue on my RV6 years ago, so I made small bread pan-type inserts, and cut out the padding/carpet where my heels rested. The aluminum 'bread pans' sat down into these cut outs and my feet were in their original position. That was a lot easier than trying to adjust your rudder pedals.
 
bret said:
Hey Gasman! If I paid atention? Just kidding, hey I thing I met you at Greg's BBQ at the Reno air race last year ya no? Any way, yes there a lot of ifs and what if, I just want to get it close so I don't have to do any yoga moves to change it. So you are saying the weldment should be slightly back and the peddles parallel with the weldment right? And a good note on carpet and possibly a false raised floor. And what about shoe size..... So where should the ball of your foot be? Ideally? So many questions, sorry.
Click to expand...

No, that's what I meant by pay attention to the plans.

The left weldment will mount farthest from the firewall. Set it to tilt 14 deg. toward you with fuse level. Mount brake pedal tilting to firewall 1" measured from center line of the vertical weldment to the top of brake pedal.

Make the right pedal match the left by lining up the lower horizontal bar. And then set the right brake pedal to the angle of the left pedal. Not the vertical weldment as the left was. The holes that you drill in the pedals for the master cyl. will NOT be in the same location.

Go sit on the bottom step of your stairs.
Now set your feet out with your knees bent a little like you do when you fly. Feet in a natural position as if they were on rudder pedals and able to push full left or right rudder.

Look at the angle of your feet. They are not vertical. The balls of your feet should not apply any brake pressure without you lifting your feet a little to apply the brakes. Or intentionally pushing with your toes.
 
OK I'll try that, trying to stay away from the angles that will inadvertently apply the brake while maneuvering with the rudder on the ground. Thanks.
 
Bret,
Did you end up angling the pedals at all? Can this be done when drilling to the master cylinders.
I'm currently just finishing up my pedals.
 
Rudder-side by side RV's

Giving many checkouts in RV's have shown me the need for some adjustment on the rudder controls. A simple help is a piece of split auto heater hose-3/4". These can be tie wrapped on the bottom rudder bar to hold your feet further back if there is not enough angle on the rudder pedals.

Most new RV pilots are surprised at how much right rudder they need on takeoff. Many accidentally apply some brakes during takeoffs even though I brief them to expect it. I've seen it over and over!
 
Mruffatto said:
Bret,
Did you end up angling the pedals at all? Can this be done when drilling to the master cylinders.
I'm currently just finishing up my pedals.
Click to expand...

MY pedals are in alignment with the weldment, and the weldment is angled tward the rear, my cable links are short, I think it will be ok, but I might end up installing extension blocks like mentioned above.
 
I lined my brake pedals to the rudder pedals via the plans. I just recently got my seats, tossed them in and felt everything out. I found I could adjust the angle of the pedals with the size of the links, I simulated the links with a zip tie so I could try out different scenarios. The shorter the link the harder to inadvertantly get the brakes. I found a good angle that seemed to work naturally with rudder as well as brake, way more so than heel brakes! I almost installed my carpet too but didn't want to get it dirty, if it messes with the angle too much ill just build some more links.
 
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