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Rudder control horn/strike plate question

C

clutch22

Well Known Member
As I said before, when I got my tail kit the other day, it was about halfway completed. So this last week I've been going through the plans step by step and inspecting everything. Overall things are looking good, mainly just a few over countersunk holes will need to be taken care of.
So that's just an update, but my question is that in the plans it says to countersink the upper hole of the striker plate, and the aft side of the control horn at the same location as if you were going to double flush a rivet. But then you just put a pop rivet through the hole. It's not that big of a deal, but it's just bugging me to know why you need a "flush" or low profile tail there. This step is already completed, but I was just wondering. :confused:
 
I think it's because the stack up is pretty thick there and Vans wants to use an otherwise too short -4 grip blind rivet.
 
As you may have read elsewhere, on a windy day the rudder can really blow around; a gust lock is really needed. A few people whose gust locks failed reported that the striker plate rivets subsequently failed; they replaced them with steel screws/bolts. Just something to think about.
 
I changed my stock rudder stop for one made out of delrin that is 1/2" thick, and used #8 screws and nuts to attach.
 
I see. Yeah, I was thinkin it may have something to do with the grip length.
I'll have to look into the gust lock problems others have had...
 
Stops

I did discover that without a gust lock, the proposed rivets that hold the stops to the bracket will fail. They are, of course, aluminum alloy and pretty weak for that kind of shear, so I would recommend putting a replacement stainless steel screw and nut.
 
another idea

Three things I did/do to make sure it doesn't shear:
I made the stop out of one piece aluminum instead of two pieces. I have spring bias rudder trim from Aerosport products which helps keep the rudder centered in light to moderate wind and I also use the gust lock in heavy/gusty wind. A little off topic but might as well do something now.
 
Ditto

Bill.Peyton said:
I changed my stock rudder stop for one made out of delrin that is 1/2" thick, and used #8 screws and nuts to attach.
Click to expand...


Me too. No problems so far, but it's never been caught in a gust. I also have the Aerosport rudder trim bias spring system which keeps it from flapping and I use a gust lock whenever tied down outside.
 
Bryan,
I too added the Aerosport trim and also additional springs which go forward to the firewall. It makes a big difference in 10kt or less winds. Today I am going to modify my rudder gust lock to also accommodate the stick.
 
better gust lock

All I'm using for a gust lock is two sticks to hold the rudder pedals in place, then I strap the stick back with the seat belt. It works fine, but I would like to have a better set up that hold the stick in neutral pitch position. I think Tim O. has such a set up that I might copy but if you come up with something better let me know.
 
I copied someone elses idea - add a couple of tabs to the Bogart tow bar and it makes a great gust lock for the rudder and stick, with the stick approximately neutral. I carry the tow bar around with me anyway.
 
Pics

BobTurner said:
I copied someone elses idea - add a couple of tabs to the Bogart tow bar and it makes a great gust lock for the rudder and stick, with the stick approximately neutral. I carry the tow bar around with me anyway.
Click to expand...

Can you send pics or refer me to another post with pics?
 
Sorry I don't have a photo but it has been posted here before. Quick description:
Attach two small tabs (they welded, I used hose clamps) to the tow bar so that in normal use, the tabs point aft and are just outside of the nose wheel pants, tabs on the top side. Place tow bar, with T handle in place, inside the plane. Slide the small triangular area of the assembly over the copilot's stick; slide the tabs over the rudder bar but under the brake pedals. Push the T handle down against the seat back (adjust the seat position as needed; my rudder pedals are in the full aft position, and for that the seat fully aft works). Loop the copilot lap belt over the handle so it cannot slide up. Loop the pilot lap belt over the stick and firmly pull it into the V of the tow bar (I put some hot water pipe insulation there as a cushion to prevent scratches). Done.

Search for the photo, a picture is worth a thousand words. I think it was posted by one of the guys in Watsonville.

PS In a pinch you can put a tab thru a hole in the top of the brake pedal and use this as a temporary parking brake. The leverage is wrong so this is not as good for use as a rudder gust lock, but okay for temporary use until you get the wheels chocked.
 
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