Rolo-Flair Problems

[mlwynn]

Hi all,

I bought a Rolo-Flair when I was making my fuel tanks. Seemed to work fine. I am working on the fuel system now and somehow I am not getting the results I need.

Having lost the instructions, it is possible that I am doing something wrong, but here is the problem. I cut the tubing with a standard cutter. Smooth the end with a scotchbright wheel. Insert to the lever that is the proper depth marker. Tighten it down, screw in the flaring part. Release.

The ends are scored and somewhat irregular. There is a bunch of aluminum on the end of the flaring bit. I tried using less force, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Here are a couple of pictures:

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I hope I did the picture thing correctly.

Anyway, anyone with thoughts on this?

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8
San Ramon, CA

 

[AntiGravity]

Oil and not too much screwing around!!

I'm just doing this now and finding it ok. The instructions state to always put oil on the cone for *every* flare. I do, and it seems to work well. The cone actually burnishes the aluminium as well as create the flair so the oil acts like a polishing lubricant. Even with oil you get some aluminium residue left over: make sure to wipe the cone clean after every flare.

Secondly, only screw the cone down until 'slight resistance' is felt: don't force it too far. As soon as any resistance to the flare is felt, back it right off.

This is what I have been doing and as far as I can tell the flares are just fine.

 

[robertahegy]

When you cut the tube, there is usually some burr in the ID of the tube that needs to be cleaned out. My cutter has a cleanout blade on it to do that. Also make sure everything, including the tool, is clean. Add a drop of oil on the flairing tool to ease the process. Dittos, what Jeff wrote.

Hope this helps,

Roberta

 

[Rivethead]

I'm using the same tool and the oil and slight pressure are both good instructions. I also run the cone down one more time into the flare before removing the tube. I get great results.

 

[asav8tor]

Agree,

No burrs inside or out,

Dip end to be flared in 50% STP and 50% 20-50 engine oil,

Don't over tighten making the flare,

Solvent rinse to remove oil,

Inspect, good light and magnification if the eyes are not young

 

[cytoxin]

well

not that i do it any differently but what i do is
1 cut tube slowly with tubing cutter making sure not to close the tube any
2 debur with a edge deburring bit. a blade like roberta says is ok as well.
3 install to the height of the gauge or sometime a touch less.
4 lube cone
5 turn in until the pressure is just starting to be felt.otherwise you force the backside of the tubing into the form blocks leaving two ridges on the flare.
6 remove .
i only do it once as i try to eliminate the bumps/lines or whatever you prefer to call them from the back side of the flare. i then debur the edges of the flare on the scotch brite wheel. good luck YMMV

 

[mlwynn]

Problem Solved

First of all, thank you all for your help.

I think my problem is that I wasn't properly deburring the inside of the tubing. I think the tool was tearing out the burr and then scoring the face of the flare with the excess aluminium. Once properly deburred, with lubrication, my flares are shiney, smooth and otherwise perfect.

It is amazing what a wonderful resource we are for each other.

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Fuselage (fuel system)
San Ramon, CA