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Riveting Wing Skins

tomcostanza

Well Known Member
Does anyone have a diagram of a known successful sequence for riveting the wing skins on a -7? I've seen Vern Little's diagram for a -9 (http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/Tips.html), and can probably adapt this if necessary, but I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if I don't need to (the -9 seems to have an extra rib).

Thanks to all for their help with this and everything else.

Regards,
Tom Costanza
RV-7A
Fixing a leak in 2nd fuel tank
 
william weesner said:
if you rivet them in the stand as compared to laying them on a table place some foam in the wing so if you should drop the bucking bar you wont damage the rear spar....
Thanks for an excelent tip! - I could totally see myself dropping the bucking bar, spending an hour blending out the damage, and still wondering if it was enough...
 
Riveting wing skins

Tom:

This is QB experience on the bottom outboard skin only, however I wouldn't be surprised if it's the most dificult skin to attach since it's the last.

I did mine on a table and it worked well. I tied the outboard skin edge to a ceiling fixture with twine to keep it open while riveting. It gets very difficult to fight the skin, a bucking bar and your balance so, I took the skin-fight off the table. Use a slip knot in the twine as you'll be adjusting it as you move down the bays.

Now for the really important advice: keep track of your bucking bars and other tools you may use. I closed up a 3 lb bar that my building group affectionally calls the MOAB (mother of all bucking bars). Lukily, someone asked to borrow it BEFORE I lifted the wing off the table. I searched for quite a time before that little voice started whispering that I might have left it in the wing ( I make a habbit of listening to that little voice, you know, the one that starts shouting when someone says "hey, watch this"). Luckily I found it before I lifted the wing. I imagine that would have left a bit of a mark when it slid down to the spar.

Jekyll
 
Wing Skin Riveting

Jekyll said:
Tom:

This is QB experience on the bottom outboard skin only, however I wouldn't be surprised if it's the most dificult skin to attach since it's the last.

I did mine on a table and it worked well. I tied the outboard skin edge to a ceiling fixture with twine to keep it open while riveting. It gets very difficult to fight the skin, a bucking bar and your balance so, I took the skin-fight off the table. Use a slip knot in the twine as you'll be adjusting it as you move down the bays.
<snip>
Jekyll
From a slow-builder, the inner skin is also tough - I'd say a bit tougher because of the closely spaced ribs in the wing-walk area. I have "thick" arms, and had to use a long bucking bar. Someone with 'thin' arms wouldn't have as much trouble. I also used string to hold the skin away from the frame, but I cleco'ed it to an appropriate spot on the frame, and moved the cleco as required. I did my first wing all by myself. I had help for the second wing - which is a bit easier of course. I found it easiest to put the wing on the floor (on a piece of carpet) and lay across the wing to reach in with the bucking bar (both alone and with help).

Dennis Glaeser
7A - Fuselage, getting ready to rivet the tail cone...
 
Dennis, yup, I'm glad I didn't need to buck around the wing walk ribs. But you didn't need to figure out how to drive a unibit through that area and then find a means to deburr the holes and anchor the conduit with that whole area closed up. :D Each of us have challenges with out kit of choice.

I must admit, I never thought of laying on my wing. Now that's a very close and personal building method. :D

Which ever method you choose, be prepared for bruised arms for the duration.

Jekyll
 
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