How did everyone else rivet the last couple rivets on the inboard and outboard elevator ribs? I cant seem to get any bar, or squeezer in there. I'm having the same problem with my rudder. Any insight would be much appreciated. I'd rather not use pop rivets.
Can't remember. I either used the 4" thin-nose c-frame yoke on the squeezer with an extra-wide flat set, or I might have cheated and used 3/32 CherryMax rivets from GAHco, which are brilliant, by the way.,
If memory serves.... Using a back rivet technique, I used a 14" machanic's flat blade screw driver; set up the piece to be riveted,
placed the screwdriver blade on the top of the rivet and then applying impact with my pneumatic riveter to the top of the screwdriver.
I used a chisel like Lorne used the screwdriver. I have heard of builders bending the edge of the sheet up enough for clearance, but care must be given not to damage or crease the metal. The no hole yokes might be able to get in. And the pops rivets will always work, just fill in the hole. I won't tell anyone!!
This is all I use anymore for narrow clearance back riveting. I ground the tip to get into the tightest spots. Got it online at the big auction site for a steal.
I'd pop rivet them. I bucked mine with an altered chisel and rivet gun - barbaric! There are still some harsh words floating around the airspace in my old workshop I am sure. Any slips and you have possible damage. After that, I vowed to pop rivet and be done with it.
I ended up using cherry's. I'll touch em up with a little bondo in a couple of years. Thanks for the replys everyone. Now if my wings would ship I'd be happy.
MK-319-BS pop rivet, fits flush, saves time and prevents damage, no worries. Anytime I encounter that tight of a spot thats what I do. They can be filled with epoxy or filler before paint. just my 2cents