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Rivet to close up tooling hole on tank rib
- Thread starter llavalle
- Start date
I think you might have truoble trying to drive an AD6 rivet with the standard tools available to the home-builder.
On the -10, the plans call for small plates to be manufactured from scrap and riveted/prosealed over the holes. If memory serves, there were a total of a dozen holes to cover.
On the -10, the plans call for small plates to be manufactured from scrap and riveted/prosealed over the holes. If memory serves, there were a total of a dozen holes to cover.
llavalle
Well Known Member
We also have this option. In the case of the -9, there is only 1 hole to cover in the outer rib of each tank. That's it.
This is the hole : on top of the rib, near the baffle. This is a picture of the inboard rib and it will be covered by the access plate but we have the exact same hole on the other side.
I thought a 3X gun could drive a -6 rivet if the pressure was cranked up.
flion
Well Known Member
Actually, all you need is a 3-lb hammer and a set for the C-tool. Those of us from the 'bad old days' 
may have done this not just for the tooling holes on the tank ribs but also to set the rivets in the spar (not everyone could afford a pneumatic squeezer). I like how neat the AN470-AD6 rivet looks as opposed to the plate but both are pretty effective.
By the way, the rivets that came with the kit are long; I used a rivet cutter to cut them down for the tank ribs. I'd be happy to stick a few in an envelope if you want. (I don't have an unlimited supply and I need some for my -10, so sorry if others are in need. He asked first.)
may have done this not just for the tooling holes on the tank ribs but also to set the rivets in the spar (not everyone could afford a pneumatic squeezer). I like how neat the AN470-AD6 rivet looks as opposed to the plate but both are pretty effective.By the way, the rivets that came with the kit are long; I used a rivet cutter to cut them down for the tank ribs. I'd be happy to stick a few in an envelope if you want. (I don't have an unlimited supply and I need some for my -10, so sorry if others are in need. He asked first.)
Flying Scotsman
Well Known Member
Just buy a small amount of soft rivets. Use AN470A-x-y and you can set 'em no problem. Just make sure you don't accidentally use an "A" rivet in place of an "AD" rivet somewhere structural (ask me how I know this).
I ended up buying a very small number of soft "A" rivets in a few -4 and -5 diameters...comes in handy every now and then.
I ended up buying a very small number of soft "A" rivets in a few -4 and -5 diameters...comes in handy every now and then.
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Philippe,
I'll be glad to send you a couple of AD6 rivets...ideal for plugging those tooling holes. The rivet length is going to be long. Just cut them down to the appropriate length before installing and setting the shop head. Since the length will end up being very short, -1 or so, you *may* be able to set with a 3X gun cranked all the way up....depends on your particular equipment. If not, you can always use the hammer method. Shoot me your mailing address via private message.
llavalle
Well Known Member
llavalle
Well Known Member
Got the rivets from Flion, thanks
For the record, I did not have any problems driving the rivet. Using my back riveting tool, 130psi on my 3x gun and an anvil as a bucking bar, it only took a small blurp to form the shop head!
Now I just need to cover it up with pro-seal!
