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rib-spar seperation during rivet

datsclark

Active Member
After a few months hiatus from the project, I got back at it today. I riveted the front spar/rib together in the vertical stabilizer, but even with the best pressure and clamping i could do, the ends of the ribs came up a little bit. I'm not really happy with this result:

IMG_0305.JPG


It looks a little worse than it is in this picture. The space is about half what you see, its just reflecting the height of the gap (top half is mirrored).

Should I drill out and try something else?
 
DONT WORRY MANY HAVE DONE THE SAME. I CHOSE TO JUST LEAVE THE FEW I DID ALONE ON MY FIRST WING. DID YOU TRY USING A SMALL PIECE OF RUBBER HOSE OR O-RING TO SQUEEZE THE RIVET, THAT SHOULD HOLD DOWN THE RIB DOWN NICE AND TIGHT. IVE LEARNED AND SO HAVE OTHERS THAT TRYING TO FIX A PROBLEM LEADS TO WAY MORE.
 
Are the rivets fully formed?

It is hard to tell from the pic but it does not look like the rivets are squeezed enough. That might help. Otherwise, as long as the rivet has not swelled between the ribs, leave it and move on.
 
Use clear hose

I like to use clear hose, you can pickup at Home Depot. Cut off a 1/4" section, buy a diameter that is no larger than your squeezer set. I like the clear because I can still see the rivet. I does work great to keep the parts tight together while squeezing.

Cheers
 
Should I drill out and try something else?

Andrew,
Do not drill out these rivets. You will almost certainly make things worse.
The other reason not to is there is nothing wrong.
It is quite normal for some material distortion to occur in this thin of material when setting 1/8" rivets with this close of edge distance. It happens because of the distress caused by the rivet head forming against the thin material. You can reduce it by always (when possible) putting the manufactured head of the rivet against the thinner material. Sometimes there is thinner material on both ends of the rivet (such as a rib on both sides of a spar) and then you have no choice.
 
Agreed. You'll most likely make it worse trying to improve the situation. Having the shop head on the correct (thin material) side helps some with this, but there are some locations where the contortions required to be able to buck it that way are just too much...
 
Thanks everyone for the help. I decided to take the general consensus here and just leave it alone. I knew about having the manufactured head on the thinner material (where possible), but I wasn't really thinking that through. It seems it would also be a good idea to always put the manufactured head on the side that would bend down easier, which is exactly what i did not do.

Live and learn, thanks everyone! I finished the vertical stabilizer on Sunday, now on to finishing the rudder!
 
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