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RG24-11 Battery Mount

flion

Well Known Member
As promised in another thread, here's some pictures of how I modified the battery mount to accept a 24V battery. Unintended benefit: I still have the original mount if I or a subsequent owner wishes to switch the electrical system someday.

I wanted to keep the design somewhat similar to Van's; I especially liked the channel at either end of the PC680. I got some .060 stock and found a fellow VAF member who had access to a press who could make some channel for me. He goes uncredited because it turned out much more difficult/expensive than he thought and I doubt he wants to go through that again. Anyway, I then used the original base plate as a guide for making a new one sized for the RG24-11 with overlap for the channel pieces. Once the blank was cut out and smoothed, I again used the old plate as a drilling guide for the screws to attach the plate to the structure and the bellcrank to the plate. Then I had to cut the slot for the bellcrank.
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Next I drilled the front channel to the plate, put the battery up against it as a guide and drilled the rear channel, and then repeated the process with the side channels.
DSC02319.jpg


Finally, I drilled the bolt holes and shortened the hold-down to match the new mount.
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I'll have to get shorter bolts (6.5" instead of 8"). Once the#40 holes are countersunk, it's off to the powder-coater's; I think I trust that more around the battery than simply primer/paint.
 
Slick!!

A buddy of mine did something similar to install dual batt, even included a mount for the second contactor.

Lots of ingenious folks out there.
 
Got it back from the powdercoater and assembled it; it came out real nice. Just bragging, now, sorry.

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Flion. It is good to see someone else that is going 24V in their plane besides me.;) I modified my tray similiar to yours also but intend on using dual Odyssey batteries. I even swapped out the 12V starter and alternator that came on my engine with 24V.
 
Just starting to build. Two questions:
1) Why 24 volt instead of 12 volt
2) where to send powder coating, and why powder coat instead of prime
I guess 3 questions
 
Why? Recommended by my avionics shop. There are lots of pros and cons and you can do a search to find lots of discussion. I've been real happy with the 12V system in my -6A but it has the batteries right there on the firewall, not back in the tail. Also, it doesn't have air conditioning or all the other power eating stuff. And, while it is less true than before, it is easier to find a 24V boost box at an FBO than a 12V one - though I have never needed a boost before (yeah, now I've jinxed myself).

You should be able to find a powder coater in the yellow pages. We've got two here in Flagstaff. Powder coat is cured on by heat and generally makes a more durable finish than paint if it is applied correctly. It is not bulletproof and not as chemical resistant as baked enamels (nor as brittle) but makes a good compromise. In a motorcycle, I would have had a steel battery box with a ceramic coating to resist corrosion and chemicals but I don't want the ferrous material in an aircraft so I used aluminum and powdercoat instead. I won't be powdercoating anything else except possibly the steps.
 
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