Replacing remote oil filter with engine mount

[Theflightrisk]

Good day fellow rvers.

Next oil change thinking about removing the remote oil filter I have for a fixed one to engine. I notice the Casper labs one said prick a hole and the oil drains back to engine. I assume the same with the b and c which looks nice. But if I do this wouldn’t there be the potential for particles that are on the outside of the filter have the potential to flush down into the engine sump when that is happening. My current setup has the filter sitting vertical and bottom on the bottom which is nice because I can fill the filter with oil before starting and is a clean change.

Ben

 

[Avanza]

Good day fellow rvers.

Next oil change thinking about removing the remote oil filter I have for a fixed one to engine. I notice the Casper labs one said prick a hole and the oil drains back to engine. I assume the same with the b and c which looks nice. But if I do this wouldn’t there be the potential for particles that are on the outside of the filter have the potential to flush down into the engine sump when that is happening. My current setup has the filter sitting vertical and bottom on the bottom which is nice because I can fill the filter with oil before starting and is a clean change.

Ben

My experience is that some of the oil will drain back slowly if you prick a hole in the filter. I use a plastic bag around the filter when removing it.
Particles in the oil outside of the filter will end up in the new filter. I see no problem here.

Good luck

 

[hgerhardt]

My way: Slide the funnel tool (described below) around the filter. Prick a hole into the filter near the top. Then rotate the filter 1/2 turn so that hole is at the bottom and centered over the funnel. Then prick another hole on top. The oil flows out nicely through the bottom hole. I typically leave this overnight and next day the filter is practically dry.

To make this work without a mess, take a small funnel and drill two holes in the rim and install a loop of thin safety wire to just fit around the filter. Push on a length of hose on the funnel spout long enough to reach the bottom of the engine. May need a second pan to collect the drained filter oil.

By rotating the filter only 1/2 turn, it remains sealed to the filter adapter and won't leak from there.

 

[Theflightrisk]

My way: Slide the funnel tool (described below) around the filter. Prick a hole into the filter near the top. Then rotate the filter 1/2 turn so that hole is at the bottom and centered over the funnel. Then prick another hole on top. The oil flows out nicely through the bottom hole. I typically leave this overnight and next day the filter is practically dry.

To make this work without a mess, take a small funnel and drill two holes in the rim and install a loop of thin safety wire to just fit around the filter. Push on a length of hose on the funnel spout long enough to reach the bottom of the engine. May need a second pan to collect the drained filter oil.

By rotating the filter only 1/2 turn, it remains sealed to the filter adapter and won't leak from there.

I like this and thank you for input. But wouldn’t the oil also take path of lease resistance and still a good portion flow back into engine.

 

[hgerhardt]

.......But wouldn’t the oil also take path of lease resistance and still a good portion flow back into engine.

No. Whatever could come out of the filter would have to go backwards through the oil pump and then to the sump, where it would also drain out. Sure, there is clearance in the pump gears and some oil could go that way, but the path of least resistance is through the pierced hole in the filter.

But this is all a moot point, really. IF there happened to be heavy particles in the bottom of the can on the dirty side of the filter element, they wouldn't drain out of the filter inlet as the lowest holes are 3/4" above the bottom of the can. See pic below. The red line is the lowest point that oil can flow out of the can.

Light particles would have been stuck in the pleats of the filter element so they wouldn't leave the filter either. And hypothetically if they did, they'd just end up in the sump again, where they originated in the first place.

And on the clean side of the filter (the center hole), no oil would flow out of that since the oil would have to travel uphill to get anywhere, and besides, that oil is clean.

 

[Dan 57]

Here's the method I use, which of course is the best one around
The aviation tooling dept. of your nearest DIY outlet will provide you with a 2" plastic pipe... cut down to 3' and sliced in half, this will provide the perfect no-spill path for the oil to escape the slightly unscrewed oil filter.
No need to thanks me, saw this sometime ago on this forum

 

[thodgdon]

Here's the method I use, which of course is the best one around
The aviation tooling dept. of your nearest DIY outlet will provide you with a 2" plastic pipe... cut down to 3' and sliced in half, this will provide the perfect no-spill path for the oil to escape the slightly unscrewed oil filter.
No need to thanks me, saw this sometime ago on this forum

View attachment 70692

Haha well I’m going to do it anyway - THANK YOU - and to whoever posted it first. There are a lot of newbies here (me as a non-builder owner) and the wealth of information here is daunting - and sometimes tough to wade through. As typical, VAF residents come through with great information!!

Have a safe weekend

 

[RV8JD]

At my last oil change I used Anti-Splat’s EZ Oil Filter Drain Tool for the first time:

ASA EZ Oil Filter Drain – AntiSplatAero

antisplataero.com

It worked as advertised, with no mess. Put a paper towel under the oil filter to absorb a drop or two of oil. One nice thing about this is you don’t have to wait for oil to drain from the filter.

See the video below of Dave Hirschman (of AOPA) using it on his RV-4. Alan also has a video on his Anti-Splat site with instructions on using the tool.