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Removing UHMW Adhesive

RV7ator

Well Known Member
What solvent will remove the ancient UHMW adhesive from a painted surface? My case is the anti-chaff tape applied to flap leading edges. After 12 years, the plastic tape has detached from its own adhesive, leaving the well stuck adhesive on the paint. I've tried Goof Off, Goo Gone, alcohol, acetone, and MEK. So far, only the first two have softened the adhesive, but it still must be scraped off with a single edge razor. PITA. Since the glue's so good, I'm tempted to just peal off the UHMW and apply new over the old adhesive.

Any solvent ideas (that won't also remove the paint)?

John Siebold
 
3M makes a product called 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner that I've had pretty good luck with for years. But I'd test it in an inconspicuous place first. You can get it at many hardware stores; it comes in a red and white metal can with a nozzle top.
 
What solvent will remove the ancient UHMW adhesive from a painted surface? My case is the anti-chaff tape applied to flap leading edges. After 12 years, the plastic tape has detached from its own adhesive, leaving the well stuck adhesive on the paint. I've tried Goof Off, Goo Gone, alcohol, acetone, and MEK. So far, only the first two have softened the adhesive, but it still must be scraped off with a single edge razor. PITA. Since the glue's so good, I'm tempted to just peal off the UHMW and apply new over the old adhesive.

Any solvent ideas (that won't also remove the paint)?

John Siebold
First, DON'T use a "razor blade" ... get some PLASTIC razor blades and a 'handle' ... easy to find on multiple websites, etc. Tools, in general. (How do I know about the plastic blades? Yes, i tried steel single edge blades by hand, and in various scraper tools. YES, it will result in scratches and gouging the metal, destroying your paint, too. But my experience was on some 'out dated' RV-12 ULS parts left in an Arizona hangar for 13 yrs. Since they were 'old' P/N's and had superseding P/N's it was a good test environment. I was successful with a couple of solutions, finally, Acetone, MEK, Goo-Gone, Goof-Off, etc. and finally a heat-gun on low setting, or hair-dryer equivalent. Hopefully, somebody will have the perfect recommendation for painted surfaces. I used solvent AFTER the heat gunner and plastic blades. And then the solvents were to remove residual adhesives.
GOOD LUCK and test carefully, I also assume you will remove the flaps to perform the clean-up> Right? Second, curiosity ... what are you going to use afterward? new film or ??
 
What solvent will remove the ancient UHMW adhesive from a painted surface? My case is the anti-chaff tape applied to flap leading edges. After 12 years, the plastic tape has detached from its own adhesive, leaving the well stuck adhesive on the paint. I've tried Goof Off, Goo Gone, alcohol, acetone, and MEK. So far, only the first two have softened the adhesive, but it still must be scraped off with a single edge razor. PITA. Since the glue's so good, I'm tempted to just peal off the UHMW and apply new over the old adhesive.

Any solvent ideas (that won't also remove the paint)?

John Siebold
I used solvent (alcohol, lacquer thinner Goof Off) I really do not remember which solvent I used. But neither of the mentioned should remove paint. And credit card blanks.
Got it off no problem except a lot of work. I have the rubber eraser gizmo for a drill but thought it to messy. DO NOT USE A RAZOR
My luck varies FIXIT
 
Following up with another question: what alternatives are there to the Van's issue UHMW tape?
You can use clear vinyl stone guard by 3M or Avery etc. Another option is stainless steel tape. Haven't tried it myself but have read about others on the forum using it with good success.
 
Goo Off, heat, and the eraser wheel worked for me. Still took some time to get it all off. I replaced with the stainless steel tape from McMasters and it looks great. Also, McMaster list the single roll length at 9ft which would a bit too short, but in actuality, one roll is long enough for both flaps.
 
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