Rattle can application advice

[AviatorJ]

I've been priming all my parts with AKZO.. however on the tailcone I'm going to top coat it with some Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spry Paint (Light Machine Gray) rattle can. Why? Cause it's pretty, will be visible and I'm envisioning easy touch up down the road.

I just primed a mess of pieces this afternoon and want to make sure this doesn't end up looking shotty. It's my understanding you should top coat AKZO within 3-24 hours... or if you wait longer then you need to sand it for proper adhesion.

Since I'll rattle can everything tomorrow is there any tips or tricks to ensuring it looks goodish? Should I just go nuts with the cans or should I hit it with some high grit sandpaper, maybe wet sand wipe clean and then spray?

Thanks!

 

[wirejock]

Rattle can

I would prep the surface first with 400, wipe it with a tack cloth then shoot the Akzo and rattle can within the specified window. This way you have at least one coat with good chemical bond to the Akzo. If it's not as smooth as you want, wait till it fully cures and smooth it out with 400 or 600, tack cloth then rattle can another coat. YMMV

 

[AlexPeterson]

I don't recall which brands have them, but I only buy those rattle cans that have the fan type of spray. The circular are awful, and guarantee an uneven coating. Seems Krylon is one that has the fans on at least some of theirs.

 

[az_gila]

I would prep the surface first with 400, wipe it with a tack cloth then shoot the Akzo and rattle can within the specified window. This way you have at least one coat with good chemical bond to the Akzo. If it's not as smooth as you want, wait till it fully cures and smooth it out with 400 or 600, tack cloth then rattle can another coat. YMMV

Cured AKZO can be nicely top coated by rubbing with maroon Scothbrite and acetone.

The Scotchbrite will provide a bit of tooth and the acetone will slightly soften the surface of the AKZO primer.

This works with fully (many years ) cured AKZO.

 

[Sam Buchanan]

I've been priming all my parts with AKZO.. however on the tailcone I'm going to top coat it with some Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spry Paint (Light Machine Gray) rattle can. Why? Cause it's pretty, will be visible and I'm envisioning easy touch up down the road.

I just primed a mess of pieces this afternoon and want to make sure this doesn't end up looking shotty. It's my understanding you should top coat AKZO within 3-24 hours... or if you wait longer then you need to sand it for proper adhesion.

Since I'll rattle can everything tomorrow is there any tips or tricks to ensuring it looks goodish? Should I just go nuts with the cans or should I hit it with some high grit sandpaper, maybe wet sand wipe clean and then spray?

Thanks!

I recently shot some of the Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel and had mixed results. I've used conventional Rustoleum for twenty years on a variety of projects (one being the interior of my RV-6) and gotten good results. But this new Rustoleum is a different animal, it appears (and smells) to be more of a lacquer than the old, oil-based paint.

I had problems with it lifting the first coat when I added a second coat. It also dissolved one of the primers I used. I ended up removing the whole mess with acetone and starting over. If shot over bare metal it glossed out beautifully, but I found it to be unpredictable when applying it over a base coat.

Photo below is where I removed the first defective attempt over self-etch primer and reshot one medium coat on bare, ScotchBrite metal which glossed nicely:

Interestingly, the all white cover in the background was shot over the same primer that lifted on the wheel in the foreground. I've shot a lot of paint over the years but don't have the new Rustoleum figured out.

The nozzle is different from the old fan nozzles but it puts out a large volume of paint. Be sure you shoot some test coupons before committing to a large area.

 

[8 ball]

Rattle can application

Don't be deterred, the most recent Rustoleum paints are superior to anything in this category. If you want a shiny coat; spray one light coat then two coats immediately after. This will cause the paint to lay flat. I use Rustoleum rattle cans on lots of things that friends think are gun sprayed. Keep on keeping on.

 

[Ironflight]

One other point - I always use the inexpensive handles that attch to the can to make it feel much like a spray gun. You get a nie trigger, and it fits your hand better. Cheap at Home Depot or Lowes - makes shootign with a can much easier!

 

[AviatorJ]

Thanks for the tips... I'm going to get started here in a bit. Something I didn't mention is I tested this on a primed scrap piece I had. I put three coats on and about a week later twisted it up and scratched it. Held up well to the twisting and even scratching with a screw driver, really had to gouge it to get it scratched.

I'll also be using the little plastic handle attached to the rattle cans. I agree these are great and only maybe $5.

 

[wirejock]

Test

Thanks for the tips... I'm going to get started here in a bit. Something I didn't mention is I tested this on a primed scrap piece I had. I put three coats on and about a week later twisted it up and scratched it. Held up well to the twisting and even scratching with a screw driver, really had to gouge it to get it scratched.

I'll also be using the little plastic handle attached to the rattle cans. I agree these are great and only maybe $5.

I use two tests.
1. Let the wife have the sample for a few minutes. If her razor sharp nails can't scratch the paint, proceed to step 2.
2. Rub a piece of Gorilla tape on the sample. Leave it in a warm place for 24 hours. Rip the tape off a quick as humanly possible.