quick questions

[Randy Miller]

Being fairly new at actually posting information and questions on this website please bear with me if some of these questions seem foolish or maybe posted somewhere and I have not been able to find them.

In the process of analyzing and going over all of the work that was done on the quick build fuselage from the factory and a couple of small projects previously started I am a little less overwhelmed thanks for the encouragement. In the process here are a few things I have found and need clarification on.

1. The three rivets that go into the side skins on the very front of the top aft skin and rivet through the longeron, do not appear to have enough room to apply a bucking bar of any size due to the clearance of the F705G angle under the F757 gusset piece/bracket that had to be manufactured and is underneath of the gusset, that is fabricated for the tip up canopy. In the instructions it says to rivet the top rivets through and are unclear as to whether or not this angle bracket is riveted at this time or if the side rivets will clear once the top rivets are riveted down. I have a picture if it helps not sure how to post it.

2. Is it a fairly common practice for the rear baggage floor plates to be bolted down versus riveted down to allow access for additional wires as opposed to running all of the wires in the center tunnel next to the elevator push tube?

3. Likewise can you bolt the rear baggage side plates on the rear next to the front plates that are bolted, versus riveting as per the instructions to allow access to the steps if there is a problem with them in the future?

Sorry to be so wordy but trying to work out some of things I've noticed. Thanks,

Randy

 

[jmjula]

1) A lot of us installed that bracket long before riveting the side skin. There are some 3/32" nutplate blind rivets that can work here, or drill to #30 to use structural cherrymax rivets. With some modification of the angle, this may only be needed in the fwd most hole.

2) Your choice, but screws take time and add weight. I just put in some conduit. It is actually quite easy to drill out the floor, I know because I did so to put the conduit in after I realized I changed my mind on wiring.

3) Given that steps crack from time to time, having access isn't a bad idea, but is a lot more work.

 

[Experimental Chaos]

1) I have a slider QB, so I think my situation is a bit different, but I?ve found places were I?ve had to bend (flex, sometimes bend) stuff out of the way to rivet something.
2) I?m thinking I?m going to screw the floor boards down, but WOW that many nut plates are expensive! So I?m still searching for something less expensive.
3) Mine?s a tail dragger, so?.

So, other than mine being completely different it?s just like yours!

 

[BSwayze]

Randy,

You're not alone with these questions. Sometimes, we have to think outside the box and come up with some "creative riveting" techniques. During the course of my build, I've not only used a variety of bucking bars, but some unconventional items like the polished head of a bolt, a pry bar, and a yoke from my squeezer with a bolt stuck in the hole. A good friend of mine in Seattle told me he used a thin razor blade to reach in there and buck those 3 rivets. No kidding! This got me to thinking and I came up with a method of my own using a thin piece of steel, which will be backed up with the mass of my tungsten bucking bar. I have a more thorough discussion of all of this on a page from my log, found here:

My Riveting technique

2. Like others have suggested, I ran some conduit under the baggage floor to accomodate my future wiring runs:

More details and pictures are on my log page here:

Baggage area conduit run

3. I pop riveted the baggage floor down, as well as the side panels as Vans recommends in the plans. It will be easy enough to drill out some pop rivets if I ever need to get in there. Meanwhile, it's so much easier and less costly this way.

 

[Randy Miller]

Thanks

Great advise and nice picture I think I will run the conduit then rivot to save weight and expense. Don't see the need to take the panels back up in the future if the conduit is there. What did you make the brackets out of that you ran the plastic tubs through? Thanks for the links. I will check them out. It has been really busy at work so I have to make hay while the sun is shining!!!

Randy