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Quick build forward floor

Dave Stephens

Active Member
I appears to be imposible to remove the forward floor (up to the bulkhead) Any Ideas?? It is sandwiched under the U channel on the bulkhead and it looks like the endercart mount, and loads more have to be dismantled and it still might not come out. this will be a flat pack by the time i finish!!

I need to remove the floor to inspect rivets (there is a fair few bad ones on this QB) and to install soundproofing

Any help will be appreciated

Dave
 
David,
I watched an RV-10 builder remove it, and decided that I would not do it. You have to completely remove everything, including the leg mounts.
Instead, I purchased a fiber optic scope and inspected from the aft lightening holes. I also fabricated a flexible piece of conduit on my shop vac and cleaned it out. I then filled it with a fireproof foam - Abesco FP200.
http://www.abesco.net/productus/products/fp200.php
It took me three cans to fill all the floors - front and back.

John
 
QB fuselage

Dave,
I posted my findings with the QB fuselage on the Matronics forum Take a look here.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=82275&highlight=

The quickbuild work is not perfect (what is?), but there is a tremendous amount done that is a great time savings. (I did not find anything under the forward floors.) I found the gear fixture mounting bolts to be very difficult to remove. Many leave them and "press on". For my own peace of mind, I removed them (2 days work), drilled per instructions and installed all new bolts. I hope the pictures help.
Bill
 
Mine is the same :(

I had a few minor quirks with my RV8 QB but nothing this bad. I am at that stage where i am looking at ugly rivets and trying to decide if its worth all the extra work to end up (after trying to rivet in a hole thats now to big) a rivet thats no better! Mostly the bad ones are over driven but not weak, just ugly! OH and not mentioning the screws put in with a tyre wrench!!! cant beleve they dont snap the heads off!

the hard part with these things is knowing where to stop!!

Cheers

Dave
 
I removed one of mine and wished I never did..

I never even thought about removing the second after the first.

Phil
 
I removed both, but did not remove any of the gear support. We simply cut out a slit around the forward attachment and slid it out. I wanted to Prime, add fibrefrax ceramic insulation on the floor and also foam insulation on top of that. Yes it took me almost a full day to do the work, but I would do it again. I attached some photos.

IMG_0994.jpg


IMG_0996.jpg
 
I agree with all of the previous posts. In addition, if you want to install insulation, that can be done by pulling up the aft edge of the floor pans and sliding the insulation in from there. Use the rivet lines on the bottom as a guide to make templates for each piece of insulation.

Jim Berry
RV-10
 
I removed one of mine and wished I never did..

I never even thought about removing the second after the first.

Phil

My experience was identical to Phil's. I felt like I was in danger of doing some damage at times. I realized I was undoing a whole lot of work that I had paid to have done for me. So, I did not even attempt the second one.
 
I did what Jim did, I managed to lift up aft edge enough to get a good look in, then slid the soundex in from there and from the engine mount bolt access hole.

Cheers for the help.

Dave
 
me too

I started to remove one and quickly decided to take a good look where I could and press on. Managed to remove a few pieces of building debris but that stuff could have stayed in there without a problem.

Regarding insulation; the one fear I've always had about insulation is moisture retention and corrosion. On one hand, I've enjoyed the sound insulation provided by my interior (including floor carpets). But glad that I don't have any areas where moisture can collect and perhaps even go undetected. Not sure if that's really a concern but....

Bill
 
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