Question on 9 slider skirts

[MrNomad]

We're having probs getting the canopy skirts (part C-660) to remain parallel & against the sides of the fuselage on our 9 slider. Should the c-791 canopy skirt brackets be used to pull the bottom of the c-660 canopy skirts in at the bottom before drilling? In other words, should we tension the skirt bracket before we drill and attach to the C-660 canopy skirt?

Is the purpose of this bracket to pull the skirt causing it to rest alongside the fuse?

We've tried rolling the skirts but that creates a bulge and ripple as the skirts pull in towards the fuselage.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[pierre smith]

Tough

Hi Barry,
We used the -7 slider brackets on our -6A slider and yes, the skirts can be a bear. I had a nice, flat piece of black walnut that I laid against the skirt and pushed to keep it flush with the fuselage while my buddy drilled and clecoed the support brackets to the side skin.

BTW, we also made similar brackets to hold the rear canopy skirts down flush against the fuselage upper deck.

Regards,
Pierre

 

[Steve]

I'm almost there myself. I'm thinking the 1/16" inset dimension (square canopy frame tubes to fuselage sides) are the major factor in whether the skirts barely contact the fuse or tilt inward at the top.

Drilling holes in plexi,
Steve

 

[MrNomad]

Thanks.

Steve, if you're drilling holes, please remember the 80 degree rule but that's not enough. GO SLOW and use the plexi bit. Each hole should take 2 min to make because you are using so little pressure with an electric drill that goes so slow. We suffered one small crack because I pushed too hard on the bit. Also, use a hair dryer if the ambient temp is not high enough. When the plexi is too cold, it will emit a chipping sound during drilling which is actually small cracks. When warm enough, it will be a little mushy. Just right.

Concerning our skins, we made new ones that are vertically taller than the standard and insodoing, we exacerbated the distance between the bottom of the skirt and the side of the fuse. Today, I'll try the original skirts which are shorter, use the tricks you folks offered, and I'm certain the results will be better.

**** I wanna get in the air.

 

[vlittle]

I found that the bottom of my side skirts were flaring out when attached to the canopy. My fix was to put shim strips between the skirts and the canopy along the top attachment.

That prevented the top from being pulled in too much, thus preventing the bottom from flaring out. It tightened the fit from "OK" to "Perfect".

Vern

 

[yakdriver]

Barry, When you drill the skirt brackets just make sure the skirt is flush with the fuselage. When you rivet it together push the skirt in a little as you rivet and it will pull the bottom in about 1/32" and make a perfect fit. On the rear skirts sand a taper in the plex so when the skirts are riveted it will pull it down. I also used SO for my skirts and got it really close then used a dolly and body hammer and spent hours working it until it is perfectly sealed. I also made a fiberglass piece that fits over the slider rail perfectly. A friend who has an award winning 6 was really impressed how mine is looking. This was the single hardest thing to do on the whole project and is the first thing that other RV builders will look at. Don

Note on drilling plex. Use a high speed air drill so it will melt its way through the plex. You can use a standard drill for the initial drilling of the plex to the frame(I used a #40) then a plex drill to open it up to the final diameter again with a high speed air drill. Once you commit to drilling a hole in plex do not stop untill it is all the way through. Slow speed electric drills are a sure way to crack plex. I have a lot of experience with plex including two complete TBM Avenger canopies and turrets.

 

[Lycosaurus]

Melting plexiglass

Note on drilling plex. Use a high speed air drill so it will melt its way through the plex.

I was given different advice for drilling my canopy. You basically want to go slow and allow the drill bit to scrape the material off. You can use a regular #40 drill, then use a step drill to enlarge the hole.

Same with cutting the canopy parts. You want it to be cut, not melted. That's how we did ours, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Steve]

Drilling the plexi

I'm holding off drilling until later this week when temps get closer to 75. I'll practice on the scrap pieces first. Then burn incense, sacrifice livestock, go to confession, etc. before drilling the actual canopy.
Good tip on the spacer strips, Vern.
Steve

 

[yakdriver]

The two TBM canopies were over 1000 holes and a lot of high dollar formed plex for the turrets and using the high speed drill I never cracked one piece. Don

 

[Bob Axsom]

Plexiglass Drills are Cheap and They Work

Avery Tool sells these tools which have a highly tapered tip. I drilled 3/8" holes in my lens covers and there were no cracks. It is common knowledge that you can probably get away with using a regular drill if the hole diameter is 1/8" or less but why risk it?

The canopy side skirt design can be improved but I have posted that information enough times that I won't do that again here.

Bob Axsom