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Qs. about operation of pneumatic squeezer and Sioux rivet gun

R

rfinch

Well Known Member
I got a Chicago pneumatic squeezer and Sioux rivet gun, both used (eBay) and have questions about their operation...and if what I have is normal.

Squeezer: it seems to work, but leaks air from the location shown in the photo below. Not a huge amount but not tiny either. I contacted the seller (Cal Aero Supply Co.) and they basically refused to either refund or exchange it. Before I pursue this further I'd like to know if such air leakage is normal when the squeezer is not operating. I think it will draw down my compressor a lot. It seems like the slotted nut or whatever that thing is needs a new seal, tightened, something.
sqz.png



Rivet Gun: Seems relatively unused, but when I connect it to a line it too leaks air from near the trigger (see picture) and on pressing the trigger doesn't hammer, just leaks lots more air from the nose. Clearly doesn't work, but again, before I take it up with the seller, I wonder if there is some trick to getting it unstuck. Also, there are two screws that look like adjustment screws: one on the bottom of the trigger, one right next to the air intake on the base of the handle. Does these do anything useful? Anybody have a manual for the Sioux rivet gun?
rivgun.png


Note: neither tool leaks air from the threaded 1/4" NPT fitting or the quick connect, but at the places indicated.
 
Rivet Gun!

The rivet gun will not work unless you put a rivet set in.

That much I do know.:rolleyes:

Hope this helps!
 
put a rivet set in, and hold against bench or 2x4

A couple (ok 3 or 4) years ago when I started my slooooow build, I also bought an ebay squeezer. I think it was the same seller ;*( and had problems too.

I met the owner of http://www.clearairtools.com/ at a fly-in RMRFI in Denver, great guy. He said he would fix my squeezer for me and send me the parts he replaced. He also sent the exploded parts diagram as an fyi.

As it turned out the auction cost + the repair + the shipping back to me did end up being less than the price a new squeezer. But if you include the price the trouble...

Fred has several nice products. I also bought the floor switch for the squeezer. Its a "field upgrade" so the change-over can be undone too.

Check out: http://www.clearairtools.com/

Static ports in, Horizontal Stab being fitted, getting real close to wires, mounting the Dynons and FWF

Good Luck

Dave
 
Probably too late to help the original poster, but maybe this will help others.

The squeezer...you have an older..actually, much older unit there. That is a CP with the original inlet swivel. What you have is a bad oring, quad ring, or square ring. You will need to take a small pair of channel locks and bite two of the slots on that piece you circled. Then unscrew it like a nut..as it is a nut afterall. After you remove it, clamp the air fitting side in a vice, and take a big screwdriver to the slot on the other side..the part that is inside that funky nut you just unscrewed. You may need to use an easy out (screw extractor) to remove that inner piece. Once out...there is your seal. It is probably a square ring, but you can use either a quad or oring, size -012.

As for the rivet gun. Harder to judge from your description. It leaks when you hook up the air without touching the trigger? That would be a valve oring if the tool is newer, which is looks to be, but no guarantees. You may be metal on metal. On the bottom, next to the air inlet fitting, is either a hex or a socket hex. Remove whichever it is. There is a spring, and the valve. Take them out and replace the oring. Either your oring is bad, or you have debis caught in the oring. Either way, replace it. It is generally a -008 but could be a -009 or -010, depending. Just match up with your oring kit. If you do not have an oring kit, go to harbor freight and plunk down 5 bucks for one. Applications like this are fine for substandard orings.

As for the rivet gun not hammering...did you try it with a set? Like previously mentioned, it will NOT work without one. You need the "seal" of a set to allow the air pressure to send the inner piston backward. Now, let's say that you have tried a set, and it still will not hammer. You need to remove the outter cover (exhaust deflector)..the one you circled. Look around the barrel, you will see a pin of some type inbetween the handle and the barrel..this is a barrel lock pin. This is what prevents the barrel from unscrewing from the handle under all that vibration. You will probably need to "tighten" the barrel just a hair to loosen that pin. Remove the pin. Unscrew the barrel. Take out the inards. The valve box will stay as one piece, the piston will slide right out. If the inner valve that is inside that box slides back and forth freely, that is fine. On the outside of that box, on the side, near the back end, you will see a very small hole. Make sure that hole is clear..maybe use a wire or something. If everything you have inspected checks out to the good, you are good to go.

Very simple tool...once you been inside a few times....

Any questions...you can pm or email me.
 
RoboBobo said:
Probably too late to help the original poster, but maybe this will help others.
Click to expand...
Not too late at all, and many thanks for your response. I had also talked with the owner of Clear Air Tools (whose name escapes me, grrr) and he said much the same about the pneumatic squeezer. The seal is a very small O ring I think. I have it apart (but haven't pulled off the old O ring) but got distracted with other things so haven't found a new O ring and reassembled. Are these O rings "special" or will my local Ace Hardware & Aviation Supply have them?

The rivet gun simply needed a rivet set. Yes, that's how green I am. But I too hope to build my -9A! Fortunately I recognize somewhat my ignorance and took Synergy Air's Fundamentals and Empennage classes. The used Sioux is a wonderful rivet gun and I'm glad I bought it instead of a new cheapo model.
 
Common oring

The guys name is Fred. Nice guy, always willing help, solid knowledge, been around a while.

The oring is a hardware store standard. AS568A-012 (1/2" x 3/8" x 1/16")which is generally in the number 7 spot in a kit. Kits most always start at -006, so that puts -012 in the 7 spot. Like I said..non critical application like this, you can use cheapie orings. Harbor Freight sells the whole kit for around 5 bucks. I buy all my buna 70 and 90 shore orings from McMaster. They are my FAVORITE hardware store :)

Go to www.mcmaster.com

enter o ring in the search, and you will have more options than you know what to do with. I mostly buy the ASTM SAE rated - Neoprene. Look for the cheapest or near cheapest, and you will generally find the right one.

And, for some nice breakdowns as well as top quality replacement parts for most all knock-offs, here is a great source...

http://atlanticairtool.com/toolbreakdownpage.html
 
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