jcmcdowell
Well Known Member
I have the QB tanks- they look great!
The wings kit instructions don't go into any detail where to pick up and leave off for the QB tanks. It's not a huge deal as they are pretty self contained- BUT...
I am waiting on the AVERY long back rivet double off set for the top skins and an inspection- so I thought I would get started on the next wings while waiting for my one wing stand to become free...
I changed the process a bit and things REALLY flew (maybe b/c 2nd time around ?)
I got the leading edge cleco'd and set the main spar on a long bench (3 sawhorses could do the trick). I cleco'd the leading edge assemble onto the spar every other hole along the horizontal rivet line (not the ribs)
I fit the splice plate with the last inboard rib (the one with no holes) and got that looking good. DO NOT DRILL the #40 holes yet!!! This was the most onerous part
I took my QB tank and marked the "Z" brackets with a line running down the center of the bracket (could do the same with standard build tank) and placed it on the spar. Cleco EVERY HOLE in place with the #30 clecos (BEFORE dimpling the tank skin- through the K1100-8 platenuts; they hold good). The radius on the LEADING EDGE needs some tweaking to match the tank well. FUSS FUSS- get it looking good- I had to tweak the rib and bend the splice plate into a much tighter radius at the apex. On/Off; On/Off until all seams look straight, all skins line up- if not shim the spar up; it can bend along the length until the splice plate is drilled and cleco'd onto both leading edge and tank. Get the edges of the skins mating nicely along the leading edge.
Once your happy with your mate (not your significant other) along the leading edge between the 'leading edge assembly' and the tank- match drill her and cleco EVERY SINGLE HOLE. The leading edge splice gets #40 holes and the tank side gets #30 in prep for #8 platenuts. DON'T DRILL THE TANK SIDE ANY BIGGER THAN #30 JUST YET! Those cleco's fit so well right now!
Note- the 'leading edge assembly' needs to fit together pretty well for you to get the leading edge to line up.
Ok- hard part number one done! Now the whole member is rigid and you can 'carefully' move the spar/leading edge/tank assembly around.
Now for those "Z" brackets. Take the whole assemble and turn it one edge (you might have to take out a cleco or two if on sawhorses to get everything to rest one the same plane).
Those lines on the "Z" brackets should be relatively centered on your holes in the spar. IF NOT- A) you ran your line out of center or B) the bracket is off center. WHY- Because the CNC holes on the skins and spars are pretty darn accurate and should line up without a lot of force.
SLIGHT DIVERGENCE HERE:
OK- here I made an educated guess (ASSumption). The tripping point here is- you want the lines to be close to the center so you can install the platenuts onto the brace- if it is too far off you can't install the platenut. WIth the QB tanks- everything is already together- not much I can do about the alignment of the "Z" brackets- worse comes to worse I have to adjust the holes on the spar because you run out of room on the bracket.
BUT luckily the QB tanks look pretty good- 2 out of 6 brackets were not 'centered' on the line but were within a 1/16".
BACK TO THE PROCESS:
Ok- the lines are pretty close to centered. Slowly match drill each bracket starting in the center. With ALL THE CLECO'S in along the edge of the tank- there is not much play. BE CAREFUL!!! drill slow and with little force- once it gets close to penetrating; there is a distintive feel and you know to ease up before you drill a hole in your nice sealed tank (a drill stop would make a lot of sense here.) I used the mondo gold cleco's that came with my AVERY kit to hold each hole while I drilled the next. This was much easier than trying to drill a nice straight hole upside down on the wing stand after the main ribs were riveted in place.
Finish the "Z" bracket match drilling. Then match drill the #30 holes for the leading edge ribs while your at it...2 for 1; can't beat it!
After you're finished with that- match drill the leading edge skins to #40. Roll the whole assmebly over (may have to remove a cleco to get it to lie flat) and finish match drilling the bottom leading edge skin.
I then removed the tank 1st; then the leading edge from the spar. I debur'd all the holes in the spar; ready to countersink for the 'leading edge' attachment and set the 3 platenuts for the inboard tank "Z" bracket.
I match drilled the "Z" brackets for the platenut rivets along the center line using 4 washers with a bolt from the back to hold the platenut in place (also with a clamping cleco) while I drilled the #40 holes. Then Countersink/Debur/Prime- rivet platenuts.
This took me less than 3 hours whereas it took well over twice that time on the first wing with the spar on the stand and the main ribs riveted in place.
From there I plan to finish up the 'leading edge assembly'- skins/ribs/debur/dimple/prime/rivet
I plan to countersink the spar for the leading edge attachment; then go back to the main ribs.
I think it would be prudent to wait and test fit the tank/leading edge/ spar/ main rib assembly BEFORE final drill and dimpling for the tank attachment holes.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
The wings kit instructions don't go into any detail where to pick up and leave off for the QB tanks. It's not a huge deal as they are pretty self contained- BUT...
I am waiting on the AVERY long back rivet double off set for the top skins and an inspection- so I thought I would get started on the next wings while waiting for my one wing stand to become free...
I changed the process a bit and things REALLY flew (maybe b/c 2nd time around ?)
I got the leading edge cleco'd and set the main spar on a long bench (3 sawhorses could do the trick). I cleco'd the leading edge assemble onto the spar every other hole along the horizontal rivet line (not the ribs)
I fit the splice plate with the last inboard rib (the one with no holes) and got that looking good. DO NOT DRILL the #40 holes yet!!! This was the most onerous part
I took my QB tank and marked the "Z" brackets with a line running down the center of the bracket (could do the same with standard build tank) and placed it on the spar. Cleco EVERY HOLE in place with the #30 clecos (BEFORE dimpling the tank skin- through the K1100-8 platenuts; they hold good). The radius on the LEADING EDGE needs some tweaking to match the tank well. FUSS FUSS- get it looking good- I had to tweak the rib and bend the splice plate into a much tighter radius at the apex. On/Off; On/Off until all seams look straight, all skins line up- if not shim the spar up; it can bend along the length until the splice plate is drilled and cleco'd onto both leading edge and tank. Get the edges of the skins mating nicely along the leading edge.
Once your happy with your mate (not your significant other) along the leading edge between the 'leading edge assembly' and the tank- match drill her and cleco EVERY SINGLE HOLE. The leading edge splice gets #40 holes and the tank side gets #30 in prep for #8 platenuts. DON'T DRILL THE TANK SIDE ANY BIGGER THAN #30 JUST YET! Those cleco's fit so well right now!
Note- the 'leading edge assembly' needs to fit together pretty well for you to get the leading edge to line up.
Ok- hard part number one done! Now the whole member is rigid and you can 'carefully' move the spar/leading edge/tank assembly around.
Now for those "Z" brackets. Take the whole assemble and turn it one edge (you might have to take out a cleco or two if on sawhorses to get everything to rest one the same plane).
Those lines on the "Z" brackets should be relatively centered on your holes in the spar. IF NOT- A) you ran your line out of center or B) the bracket is off center. WHY- Because the CNC holes on the skins and spars are pretty darn accurate and should line up without a lot of force.
SLIGHT DIVERGENCE HERE:
OK- here I made an educated guess (ASSumption). The tripping point here is- you want the lines to be close to the center so you can install the platenuts onto the brace- if it is too far off you can't install the platenut. WIth the QB tanks- everything is already together- not much I can do about the alignment of the "Z" brackets- worse comes to worse I have to adjust the holes on the spar because you run out of room on the bracket.
BUT luckily the QB tanks look pretty good- 2 out of 6 brackets were not 'centered' on the line but were within a 1/16".
BACK TO THE PROCESS:
Ok- the lines are pretty close to centered. Slowly match drill each bracket starting in the center. With ALL THE CLECO'S in along the edge of the tank- there is not much play. BE CAREFUL!!! drill slow and with little force- once it gets close to penetrating; there is a distintive feel and you know to ease up before you drill a hole in your nice sealed tank (a drill stop would make a lot of sense here.) I used the mondo gold cleco's that came with my AVERY kit to hold each hole while I drilled the next. This was much easier than trying to drill a nice straight hole upside down on the wing stand after the main ribs were riveted in place.
Finish the "Z" bracket match drilling. Then match drill the #30 holes for the leading edge ribs while your at it...2 for 1; can't beat it!
After you're finished with that- match drill the leading edge skins to #40. Roll the whole assmebly over (may have to remove a cleco to get it to lie flat) and finish match drilling the bottom leading edge skin.
I then removed the tank 1st; then the leading edge from the spar. I debur'd all the holes in the spar; ready to countersink for the 'leading edge' attachment and set the 3 platenuts for the inboard tank "Z" bracket.
I match drilled the "Z" brackets for the platenut rivets along the center line using 4 washers with a bolt from the back to hold the platenut in place (also with a clamping cleco) while I drilled the #40 holes. Then Countersink/Debur/Prime- rivet platenuts.
This took me less than 3 hours whereas it took well over twice that time on the first wing with the spar on the stand and the main ribs riveted in place.
From there I plan to finish up the 'leading edge assembly'- skins/ribs/debur/dimple/prime/rivet
I plan to countersink the spar for the leading edge attachment; then go back to the main ribs.
I think it would be prudent to wait and test fit the tank/leading edge/ spar/ main rib assembly BEFORE final drill and dimpling for the tank attachment holes.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
