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QB Cabin Heat aft "T" installed wrong

D

Drippy

Well Known Member
Guys,

Anyone else with a QB fuselage kit find that the aft in Heater "T" (forward of flap motor) was installed facing aft instead of straight up as shown in the drawings?

I started to install my scat tubes down the tunnel today and "noticed" the difference. Shouldn't be to hard to get it out though I am not looking forward to banging those rivets through the seat supports.

Mike
RV10
40644
 
Mike, I believe that t fitting can be rotated. It is just a slip fit onto the flanged end pieces that are riveted to the tunnel.
 
Reducer for aft cabin heat hose

A side note - I have a 2" to 1.5" scat hose reducer at both ends of the aft cabin heat line. Making this run with 1.5" hose significantly helps with the tunnel clutter.

There is still far more heat coming out than I will ever need. I even added a 3/4" restrictor on the baffle connection to further reduce the air flow.

Carl
 
bkthomps said:
Carl, where did you find reducers and restricters for the tubing?
Click to expand...

I started out with a fancy, spent way too much time building fiberglass reducer. Big mistake. The first time I used it the off gas stunk up the cabin.

Reducers are available but I just took a ~2" piece of thin wall 1.5" diameter aluminum tubing, put that into the 1.5" SCAT hose, put a few wraps of anti-chaffing tape around the outside so that it was about the right diameter to fit inside the 2" SCAT hose. Put a hose clamp around the joint and you are done. The aluminum tubing prevents the joint from collapsing. It takes just minutes to make.

This is the anti-chaffing tape I used. I found other uses for it as well: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/cowlingchafeseal.php?clickkey=5364

There is a variety of stuff you can use instead of this tape.

The 3/4" restrictors are a piece of .032" aluminum with a 3/4" hole in the center of a round 2" disc that just fits on the outside of the engine baffle plate 2" SCAT hose flange. I have two flanges and each has a restrictor. I used a little aluminum tape to tape it on the outside edge of the flange. The SCAT hose running from there to the heat muff goes over the restrictor and tape.

My thought on this was that 90% of the time I want more cooling air to the engine than dumping hot heat muff exit air out the bottom of the cowl. That said - for the other 10% of the time there is still more than enough airflow to heat the cabin even on the coldest day. So far I never found need for the front heat and only have the rear heat cracked open (the boss likes to ride in the back).

Carl
 
Wow you guys saved me some real frustration! As any builder knows it would be a lie to say I have never taken something off just to find out I didn't need to!

Thanks Guys!
 
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