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Protect Trim Cable in HS-905 Nose Rib?

Yep, some caterpillar grommet is the way to go here. You could also probably do with some rubber U-channel glued in place; it'd be cheaper. Another idea is to make some supports out of relatively thin nylon (1/8 - 3/16") split to fit around the cable and pop-riveted or screwed to the rib.
 
newbie Q

on a similar note, why is the hole called for oval vs circle? I am at this stage not sure how to go about cutting this hole. Any tips?

Joe
 
I traced out a shape, used a step bit and made a bigger hole in the middle and two smaller ones on either side. You could then use a pair of nibblers to slean it up, or a die grinder/multi-tool and finish with some sand paper to smooth it up.
 
JoeB said:
on a similar note, why is the hole called for oval vs circle?
Joe
Click to expand...

The cable goes through at an angle, oval shape fits the cable better.

Imaging cutting a piece of tubing at an angle, the cut end will be oval.
 
Joe,

Regarding the manufacturing technique required to make the oval.
If memory serves me, I took a piece of paper and folded it in half.
Then I drew the dimensions of half of the oval, (from the dimensions shown in the plan).
Then I cut the paper at the fold, and when I opened up the paper, I had a perfectly symmetric ovular hole.

Then I treated the paper, with the ovular hole, like a stencil, and I taped it down to the nose rib.

I then recruited my 9 year old daughter to color (using permanent marker) the hole.

When I lifted the paper off, I had a nice black colored oval positioned just as the plans specify.

I then used a dremel and started at the middle of the black coloring to drill out material.

Once I had worked my way out to the outer most fringes of the area where my daughter had colored (and in essence dremmeled away the last part of the material that was colored in), I had a nice ovular cut, in the nose rib!

Note: Use a scotch-brite bad to deburr this ovular cut.

Regards,

Andrew
 
Guide tubes.

Here is a shot of a tip for installing the stab on the fuse.

The two white tubes are the same kind of material that is included for brake lines, only a bit larger.

The inner threaded tips of the trim cables is inserted into the guide tubes, and as the stab is worked into place on the fuse, the trim cable will automatically follow the guide tube into place, and push the guide tube out as things progress.

Result is that the guide tubes will be laying on the floor, and the trim cables will be where they belong.

Dont forget the snap bushings in the stab as you are putting it together, sure is a lot easier that inserting them when the stab is skinned. Believe me, I know:(---Also, Vans recommended snap bushing is a tight fit on the trim cable housing, check it first, and enlargen the snap bushing I.D. a bit if necessary.

P5220016.jpg
 
Mike S said:
Dont forget the snap bushings in the stab as you are putting it together, sure is a lot easier that inserting them when the stab is skinned. Believe me, I know:(
Click to expand...

Even better -- when you are riveting, make sure you don't accidentally knock out a snap bushing inside your HS using a bucking bar. Getting them out of the newly riveted HS, and then having to figure out a way of popping them back in place is a real challenge. (Although a powerful flashlight and a three-pronged pickup tool did wonders here.)

Once you put the snap bushings in place, consider a dab of proseal or RTV to make sure they don't pop back out again while you are putting things together...

Chris
 
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