Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Prop Purchase
- Thread starter Jim P
- Start date
Jim-
Everything can be done without the prop except the finishing of the spinner. As a matter of fact I would recommend only using the spinners back plate to mock up a wooden backplate to fit the cowling. I learned the hard way that you cannot trust the aluminum backplate to be true and just bolt it to the prop adapter and use it for a alignment tool.
-Jeff
Everything can be done without the prop except the finishing of the spinner. As a matter of fact I would recommend only using the spinners back plate to mock up a wooden backplate to fit the cowling. I learned the hard way that you cannot trust the aluminum backplate to be true and just bolt it to the prop adapter and use it for a alignment tool.
-Jeff
Davepar
Well Known Member
Since I know Jim is going constant speed, I'll chime in and say it's also possible to fit the cowl w/o the CS prop. You just have to make some spacers to bolt the backplate (or replica per Jeff) to the engine. I used some PVC pipes. I did get some advice to lengthen or shorten the spacers by a specific amount, which worked out perfectly for me. I'll have to search to see which it was.
Martin Sutter
Well Known Member
Jim,
If you are going to install a Hartzell prop later you might want to hang a 50 lbs weight on the front of the crank to simulate the weight of the Hartzell. The weight of the prop will affect the position of the spinner. Failure to do so will result in your cowl being set too high after the prop compresses the rubber mounts.
Martin Sutter
building RV's since 1988
If you are going to install a Hartzell prop later you might want to hang a 50 lbs weight on the front of the crank to simulate the weight of the Hartzell. The weight of the prop will affect the position of the spinner. Failure to do so will result in your cowl being set too high after the prop compresses the rubber mounts.
Martin Sutter
building RV's since 1988
Davepar
Well Known Member
Here you go Jim:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=4780
I can measure my PVC spacers at home, but I think I went with 2-1/8". Also, I have some bolts you can use, if you need them.
Dave
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=4780
I can measure my PVC spacers at home, but I think I went with 2-1/8". Also, I have some bolts you can use, if you need them.
Dave
randylervold
moderator
Although it is possible to use a placeholder for the prop I would not do it. There are small differences in the actual prop dimensions, not to mention the weight of it as Martin indicates above. Personally, I would not install a cowl without the engine/prop installed -- that way you KNOW it will be right, it's too expensive and too much work to make a mistake.
NeilMcLeod
Active Member
I agree with Randy, I set mine up using the dimensions suggested for the Hartzell and ended up buying a MT. It's spinner is farther forward and I ended up doing a time consuming cowl mod.
Brian Vickers
Well Known Member
OK, now you have me concerned about my situation. My firewall and engine are constant speed ready for my dream setup (MT prop). I have a beautiful wood Pacesetter 68/71 that I was planning to use for the first 50 hours or so, until my tailwheel skills strengthen and I feel good about continuing to spend money on the airplane. The accident statistics indicate the first 40 to 50 hours in a new airplane are the most dangerous. I am just trying to lower the cost of recovery from a ground loop or some type of mishap. Is this a receipe for future polyester body filler sessions, and frustration? Please lay a heavy hand on my shoulder if I need one. Sincerely, Brian Vickers, RV-4, finishing
