Hi everyone
Just starting my project and the primer question is I guess the first I have to make a decision with regards to. Having read and read this section I'm down to too many choices and a few questions that will probably govern mine.
It seems the choices are down to:
pre-treatments:
a. Do nothing and use self etching (and then have the primer scrape off from any movement)
b. Alumiprep + Alodine - this seems to add some protection but is toxic
c. PreKote - doesn't seem to add any protection but seems to prep well?
d. Stewart's Eko products pre-treatment - if using the Eko products. Perhaps less toxic.
primers:
a. Akzo - seems to be a fan favorite but also requires the most setup and might be heavy?
b. P60G2 - the stuff that Vans uses that's technically not supposed to be used to inhibit corrosion
c. Eastwood 2K AeroSpray Epoxy Primer - convenience of a spray can, but can't find any real PIREPs
d. EkoPrime - seems like not the best primer but fairly easy to use and less toxic?
e. EkoPoxy - perhaps a better corrosion inhibiting EkoPrime? The instructions indicating a 2-3 mil coating make it sound heavy though.
f. spray-can zinc phosphate primer - tempo seems no longer in production. Some company named moeller still makes it?
And now for the questions:
1. Everyone who alodines seems to use Akzo. Is that because P60G2 is not compatible with alodine or just that it's the most involved process, so the people who use Akzo are the ones that go through with it?
2. If you use alumiprep and alodine, do you still have to scuff your parts?
3. Do you prime overlapping regions of skins?
4. While I know this is subjective to how thick you spray, if you use manufacturer's guidance, how much weight would all of the above add? Are any known to be lighter than others? Roaming around I seem to see the range of weight of the same primer adding anywhere from 8 oz to 20 lbs... Did anyone do an apples-to-apples comparison?
5. Does anyone know of a proper (or improper) salt fog (or similar efficacy) test for the above?
Just starting my project and the primer question is I guess the first I have to make a decision with regards to. Having read and read this section I'm down to too many choices and a few questions that will probably govern mine.
It seems the choices are down to:
pre-treatments:
a. Do nothing and use self etching (and then have the primer scrape off from any movement)
b. Alumiprep + Alodine - this seems to add some protection but is toxic
c. PreKote - doesn't seem to add any protection but seems to prep well?
d. Stewart's Eko products pre-treatment - if using the Eko products. Perhaps less toxic.
primers:
a. Akzo - seems to be a fan favorite but also requires the most setup and might be heavy?
b. P60G2 - the stuff that Vans uses that's technically not supposed to be used to inhibit corrosion
c. Eastwood 2K AeroSpray Epoxy Primer - convenience of a spray can, but can't find any real PIREPs
d. EkoPrime - seems like not the best primer but fairly easy to use and less toxic?
e. EkoPoxy - perhaps a better corrosion inhibiting EkoPrime? The instructions indicating a 2-3 mil coating make it sound heavy though.
f. spray-can zinc phosphate primer - tempo seems no longer in production. Some company named moeller still makes it?
And now for the questions:
1. Everyone who alodines seems to use Akzo. Is that because P60G2 is not compatible with alodine or just that it's the most involved process, so the people who use Akzo are the ones that go through with it?
2. If you use alumiprep and alodine, do you still have to scuff your parts?
3. Do you prime overlapping regions of skins?
4. While I know this is subjective to how thick you spray, if you use manufacturer's guidance, how much weight would all of the above add? Are any known to be lighter than others? Roaming around I seem to see the range of weight of the same primer adding anywhere from 8 oz to 20 lbs... Did anyone do an apples-to-apples comparison?
5. Does anyone know of a proper (or improper) salt fog (or similar efficacy) test for the above?