Van's Air Force
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powerplant arrived today
- Thread starter mcems
- Start date
smokenjoe50
Active Member
Any pictures? I will be picking mine up on Monday.
Powerplant kit
If you haven't already be sure to change the battery holder "tops" to K1000-3's as noted in the recent revisions. The original 8's just don't work real well. Also, there are no extra nylon end pieces to screw into the dynon for the pitot tube and the new harness' still don't have backshells. Maybe some will show up in the mail?
Another topic...in talking with the ELT people, they insist that the elt be grounded to the airframe in the back as well as the remote. I have discussed with Van's and they will check it out.
I sure do like my nice new shiney engine and prop.
If you haven't already be sure to change the battery holder "tops" to K1000-3's as noted in the recent revisions. The original 8's just don't work real well. Also, there are no extra nylon end pieces to screw into the dynon for the pitot tube and the new harness' still don't have backshells. Maybe some will show up in the mail?
Another topic...in talking with the ELT people, they insist that the elt be grounded to the airframe in the back as well as the remote. I have discussed with Van's and they will check it out.
I sure do like my nice new shiney engine and prop.
Hey Pete
Haven't changed the 2 nutplates. I trust there are some left over from the other kits. I have not looked yet. Spent 1/2 hour on step 1, page 1, and decided there was no tubing provided. I didn't get a lot done late today after I got home from getting the engine from the freight company. The wife helped with inventory, which really helps. Got stuff moved around, and brought the fuse back up to my main shop from my rear garage. Tomorrow, I hope to make serious progress.
John Bender
Haven't changed the 2 nutplates. I trust there are some left over from the other kits. I have not looked yet. Spent 1/2 hour on step 1, page 1, and decided there was no tubing provided. I didn't get a lot done late today after I got home from getting the engine from the freight company. The wife helped with inventory, which really helps. Got stuff moved around, and brought the fuse back up to my main shop from my rear garage. Tomorrow, I hope to make serious progress.
John Bender
Geico266
Well Known Member
Here are a few things we have found that are missing or wrong with the engine kit. All have been passed onto the Van's.
Pg 45-02 Step 1 Alum tube missing
Pg 45-03 Ring terminal in drawing not correct size and missing, and butt-splice for fuse holder missing.
.
Pg 45-04 Male nylon fitting for pitot tube missing.
Pg 45-04 25 pin subshells for EGTand FWF Dsubs not provided. This is the third time connector shells have been MIA.
Pg 45-07 Steps 2 and 5 seem to have P150 and P154 backwards from the drawing. I assume the drawing is correct.
Pg 45-07 Step 7P157---Ring terminal missing
Pg45-02 Step3 Hardware called out is AN3. #8 nutplates were installed on Pg29-04 step2
Pg49-07 step1 Grommet is missing
Pg49-02 Lower Cooler box hinge cannot be made with material supplied. The hinge pin loops start on right side rather than left side.
Pg 47-02 Step 1 1 1/2 inch on the pitot tube should be 1.25 inch.
Pg 45-02 Step 1 Alum tube missing
Pg 45-03 Ring terminal in drawing not correct size and missing, and butt-splice for fuse holder missing.
.
Pg 45-04 Male nylon fitting for pitot tube missing.
Pg 45-04 25 pin subshells for EGTand FWF Dsubs not provided. This is the third time connector shells have been MIA.
Pg 45-07 Steps 2 and 5 seem to have P150 and P154 backwards from the drawing. I assume the drawing is correct.
Pg 45-07 Step 7P157---Ring terminal missing
Pg45-02 Step3 Hardware called out is AN3. #8 nutplates were installed on Pg29-04 step2
Pg49-07 step1 Grommet is missing
Pg49-02 Lower Cooler box hinge cannot be made with material supplied. The hinge pin loops start on right side rather than left side.
Pg 47-02 Step 1 1 1/2 inch on the pitot tube should be 1.25 inch.
I sent this to Vans and got reply form Ken. see below
The diode goes between the battery cable and the small terminal, so the depiction on 45-07 is correct. We'll be fixing the conflict on the drawings soon.
On 28 Aug 2009 at 11:17, Brad Stiefvater wrote:
>
> >
> Brad Stiefvater #120074
>
> From:Brad Stiefvater
> To:[email protected]
> Sent:Wednesday, August 26, 200910:28 AM Subject:section 45 correction
>
> Reference our phone conversation .There is conflict on the directions.
> on page 45-01 the drawing shows the diode cable attaching to the
> master es244115 relay along with wh 154.It also states that in the
> directions on page 45-07 step 2.
>
> The drawing on page 45-07 shows it going to the battery side of the
> master relay along with wh 150. Also the direction note that came with
> the diode shows it going to the battery side also.
>
> that is the conflict in the directions let me know what you find out.
> Dont wanna smoke anything.
>
> Thanks
> Brad Stiefvater # 120074
The diode goes between the battery cable and the small terminal, so the depiction on 45-07 is correct. We'll be fixing the conflict on the drawings soon.
On 28 Aug 2009 at 11:17, Brad Stiefvater wrote:
>
> >
> Brad Stiefvater #120074
>
> From:Brad Stiefvater
> To:[email protected]
> Sent:Wednesday, August 26, 200910:28 AM Subject:section 45 correction
>
> Reference our phone conversation .There is conflict on the directions.
> on page 45-01 the drawing shows the diode cable attaching to the
> master es244115 relay along with wh 154.It also states that in the
> directions on page 45-07 step 2.
>
> The drawing on page 45-07 shows it going to the battery side of the
> master relay along with wh 150. Also the direction note that came with
> the diode shows it going to the battery side also.
>
> that is the conflict in the directions let me know what you find out.
> Dont wanna smoke anything.
>
> Thanks
> Brad Stiefvater # 120074
Geico266
Well Known Member
I stole the list from Mike Tea,..... It is a good list! Just giving credit where credit is due.
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Geico266
Well Known Member
Engine Kit;Tip of the Day!
For "gluing down" the engine cooling baffle I used Permaxtex 599BR "Ultra Grey" high temp RTV. The red stuff works, but makes a real mess and the color really jumps out and looks ugly, IMHO. The gray (silver) blends in real nice with the engine block. I could not find high temp clear.
Anyone painting the baffle? I didn't think about it until I mounted the engine. Might be a nice touch for those who are working on it.
For "gluing down" the engine cooling baffle I used Permaxtex 599BR "Ultra Grey" high temp RTV. The red stuff works, but makes a real mess and the color really jumps out and looks ugly, IMHO. The gray (silver) blends in real nice with the engine block. I could not find high temp clear.
Anyone painting the baffle? I didn't think about it until I mounted the engine. Might be a nice touch for those who are working on it.
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Geico266
Well Known Member
Good catch John! I missed that one becuase I knew better than to take that nut off!
Geico266
Well Known Member
Exhaust System Parts Numbering
The numbering system on the exhaust parts does not match the cylinder numbers. They don't have the standard part numbers on them as stated in the plans, just marked with black marker 1,2,3,4. They need to match the corresponding numbers hand written on the muffler. Don't worry about the cylinder number, it won't match. For example the #2 cylinder (should be Vans part number EXH 1202) takes the #4 exhaust pipe as numbered (hand written) from Vans. Not sure why they decided to ignore the cylinder numbers, but it defiantly will not fit any other way.
Also, it is a really good idea to run a safety wire through the springs. That way when they break they won't fall off. Van's suggests filling them with silicone (a great idea also to reduce vibration wear) but this won't prevent them from falling off.
The numbering system on the exhaust parts does not match the cylinder numbers. They don't have the standard part numbers on them as stated in the plans, just marked with black marker 1,2,3,4. They need to match the corresponding numbers hand written on the muffler. Don't worry about the cylinder number, it won't match. For example the #2 cylinder (should be Vans part number EXH 1202) takes the #4 exhaust pipe as numbered (hand written) from Vans. Not sure why they decided to ignore the cylinder numbers, but it defiantly will not fit any other way.
Also, it is a really good idea to run a safety wire through the springs. That way when they break they won't fall off. Van's suggests filling them with silicone (a great idea also to reduce vibration wear) but this won't prevent them from falling off.
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I have used silicone on mine for years. What it does is keeps the pieces from breaking away and falling out. The safety wire will only keep the whole thing from falling off. Most of the time (or at least some of the time) they break in small pieces and the small pieces will pass through the wire. I put about three lines of silicone on mine. I fly a pusher so it is even more critical to keep them from breaking apart.
