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Pnuematic Squeezer and spar Flanges

CharlieWaffles

Well Known Member
Is there a way to use a pnuematic squeezer when setting rivets in the FLANGES of a spar? Using the squeezer with the web is no problem but when it comes to the flanges for flat or universal heads, the squeezer body gets in the way. I can't seem to figure out how to get the yoke positioned so that the impact end of the squeezer is on the shop side of the rivet. I've tried setting a few but putting the impact head on the manufactured side and letting the squeezer "scoot" back when activated, but the results are varied. Am I missing something to make this happen correctly?
 
Is there a way to use a pnuematic squeezer when setting rivets in the FLANGES of a spar? Using the squeezer with the web is no problem but when it comes to the flanges for flat or universal heads, the squeezer body gets in the way. I can't seem to figure out how to get the yoke positioned so that the impact end of the squeezer is on the shop side of the rivet. I've tried setting a few but putting the impact head on the manufactured side and letting the squeezer "scoot" back when activated, but the results are varied. Am I missing something to make this happen correctly?


When asking a question, it's always best to post a picture so that others know exactly which rivets you are referring too. Are you attempting to rivet the skins to the spar with a squeezer? If that is the case, I don't know a way to use a squeezer.

Generically, as you've witnessed, you need to have the squeezer completely perpendicular to the rivet. I used the squeezer on 90% of the rivets and I had to use three different yolks to accomplish that. I used a 3" standard, a longeron, and a 4" no hole.
 
There is a just concluded thread on bad rivets caused by a tipping squeezer in a similar situation.

Practice on some scrap and get comfortable with the old rivet gun/bucking bar technique. No need to sqeeze everything...:)

Squeezing is good, but the 1/8 rivets are at the limit of our usual squeezers, and any slight oversize in your holes will allow the rivet and squeezer to tip. This doesn't seem to happen with the hitting motion of the rivet gun as long as the bucking bar is held reasonably square to the rivet.

Another alternative is to use your Avery C-frame dimpler with a hammer - just make sure the work doesn't bounce as you are hitting it.
 
I have same setup as Bob...

used it on at least 50% of the 1/8" rivets, 25% of the 3/32" rivets and 25% of the dimpling. Also very quick for dimpling and installing nutplates without clecoing nutplates in place, as you have one free hand. Just watch your fingers...no drinking and squeezing or building for that matter(for me anyway). Maybe cleanup time.

If I knew what I know now, I would have purchased an alligator squeezer. I could have used it on many places that we're impossible due to squeezer body interference and "almost" impossible to use rivet gun/bucking bar. You can sell these when finished and recoup half of your money.
 
Charlie, the ram does not need to be on the shop head side. Orient the squeezer as needed to get access. You want to master feathering the throttle so as to squeeze nice and slow (there should be no impact!) and keep everything perfectly straight.
 
You want to master feathering the throttle so as to squeeze nice and slow (there should be no impact!) and keep everything perfectly straight.

Took me much too long to learn to feather the thottle on my pneumatic squeezer. I eventually found that anytime I held pressure against the ram (even very slight) before squeezing, it would jump when I actuated it. Now that I'm careful to keep pressure off the ram, I can close it slowly and smoothly. Makes for much better dimples and rivets especially when I've got the male dimple die or cupped rivet set on the moving part.
 
I don't think the replies thus far will answer your question. Since you are working on an empennage kit, I'm gathering you're asking how to rivet ribs to a spar with a pneumatic squeezer, or a hand squeezer for the matter. The body of the rib won't allow the squeezer to get in to be able to set the shop head. In a nutshell, you can't squeeze them unless you have an alligator squeezer. I have two CP-214's and an old Thor alligator squeezer, which makes riveting flanges to ribs a snap. But that's the only time I use the alligator squeezer since it can only be adjusted with different lengths of rivet sets and/or shim washers, and that takes time to set up compared to the CP-214's that have the adjustable ram from Avery.

If I could only have one squeezer, I would have an alligator squeezer however. With a 3" reach.
 
Thanks all. I think the trick to feather the pnuematic squeezer is what I didnt think of. I am working on the HS and there are a few flushset rivets in the forward spar (9 on each flange) that needed to be set. I had a similar issue on the VS. I will try the feathering approach and see how that goes.

On the subject, my squeezer dies are pretty loose in the ram of the pnuematic squeezer. I see Avery has a replacement ram http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=274. Anyone know if this would help make the sets more snug and not require a little eletrical tape to stay in? The same sets mount in the avery hand squeezer just fine.
 
I see Avery has a replacement ram http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=274. Anyone know if this would help make the sets more snug and not require a little eletrical tape to stay in? The same sets mount in the avery hand squeezer just fine.

I have that exact adjustable set holder and it works great. Holds the rivet sets tight just like my Avery hand squeezer. Being able to just spin the holder to adjust the height is soooo much easier than using shims!
 
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Loose

You can tighten up the fit of the dies in the holder by gently spreading the end of the retaining spring that encircles the "die stem".
 
Tried that trick on one, and the ring jumped out and landed in the magical mystery pile of debris in my garage that will never be found.
 
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